Showing posts with label Machu Picchu. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Machu Picchu. Show all posts

Friday, January 6, 2012

Peru Travel

In case you missed some of my posts about our 2010-2011 trip to Peru, here is a complete list:

  1. Peru
  2. Road to Manu National Park
  3. Paucartambo
  4. Can You Get Fresh Bread in the Middle of the Jungle? Yes, You Can.
  5. Butterflies of Manu National Park
  6. Coca Plantation
  7. White Water Rafting on Alto Madre de Dios
  8. Clay Lick, Manu National Park
  9. A Night Walk through the Jungle
  10. Zip-lining above the Amazon Jungle
  11. Machu Huasi Oxbow Lake, Manu NP
  12. Cock-of-the-rock: the National Bird of Peru
  13. Help! I'm Going to the Amazon Jungle - What Can I Expect?
  14. Animals and Plants of Manu NP
  15. Cuzco
  16. The Saqsaywaman Ruins
  17. Traveling in Peru - Practical Information
  18. The Inca Moral Code on Taquile Island, Lake Titicaca
  19. The Floating Islands of Uros, Lake Titicaca
  20. Peruvians Are the Worst Drivers in the World
  21. Cameloids of South America: Llamas, Alpacas, Vincunas, Guanacos
  22. Our Adventure with Unreliable Travel Agency, Friendly Police, and Super-Helpful iPeru
  23. Backpacking in Colca Canyon, Day One
  24. Christmas Eve in the Oasis at the Bottom of Colca Canyon, Day Two
  25. Backpacking in Colca Canyon with a Friendly Dog Companion, Day Three
  26. The White City of Arequipa
  27. Political Advertising in Peru
  28. Christmas in Peru: Nativity Scenes
  29. The Inca Trek, Day One: Cusco to Wayllabamba
  30. The Inca Trek, Day Two: Wayllabamba to Pacamayo
  31. The Inca Trek, Day Three: Pacamayo to Winay Wayna
  32. Runkurakay Ruins on the Inca Trek, Day Three
  33. Phuyumatamarca Ruins on the Inca Trek, Day Three
  34. Sayaqmarka Ruins on the Inca Trek, Day Three
  35. Intipata Ruins on the Inca Trek, Day Three
  36. Winay Wayna Ruins on the Inca Trek, Day Three
  37. The Inca Trek, Day Four: Winay Wayna to Machu Picchu
  38. Machu Picchu - Huayana Picchu Hike
  39. Good Morning, New Year! Good Morning, Machu Picchu!
  40. To Inca Trek or not to Inca Trek—that Is the Question

Sunday, January 1, 2012

Good Morning, New Year! Good Morning, Machu Picchu!

The very first view of Machu Picchu takes your breath away.


So does the second, the third, and several after them.


It does not matter that you saw a photo of Machu Picchu thousands of times before, and you precisely knew what to expect. You still can’t quite believe how magnificent Machu Picchu and its location are. For Anil and I this experience was intensified by the fact that, due to the thick fog, we didn’t get to see the ruins till the very last moment, when they were directly in front of us.

The timing of our arrival in Machu Picchu was perfect: it was almost like we were spectators in the magical theater eagerly awaiting the beginning of a one-of-a-kind performance, and the fog was a curtain separating us from that experience. As soon as we were ready to take in the view, the fog lifted and unwrapped the gift we were waiting for: the Machu Picchu. We couldn’t have hoped for a better beginning to the New Year. It also felt special to arrive in Machu Picchu in the year marking the one-hundredth anniversary of its rediscovery.



After several hundred skipped heart beats, and thousands of “wows,” we decided it was time to explore the ruins. Only then did we start to notice all the details that collectively make Machu Picchu so unique and impressive.

First, you cannot not-notice the spectacular location of the site. Machu Picchu is located on a steep mountain ridge above a loop of the Urubamba River, which surrounds it on three sides. The city is located at an impressive 2,430 meters (7,970 feet) above sea level, on a 450-meter (1,480-feet) vertical drop. You cannot help but wonder how the Incas managed to build such an impressive site in such a seemingly inaccessible location? How did they move and place the enormous blocks of stones into their position? And why didn’t they use the wheel to move the blocks, even though they were familiar with the principle of how the wheel works?








Second, as you walk around the ruins, you can see for yourself how perfectly shaped and precisely fitted together all the building blocks are. As I mentioned in one of the previous posts, the Inca didn’t use any mortar, and the stones stay together because of that tight fit. And despite the lack of mortar, many buildings survived in good shape till our times. How many contemporary buildings will survive five hundred years? And how many of them will be considered “timeless classics?”


All in all, Machu Picchu is composed of about 140 structures, including many temples, sanctuaries, parks, and residences that include houses with thatched roofs. Those buildings are divided into three main sectors: the Temple, Urban, and Agricultural Sectors, which can be quite easily distinguished from each other from the top of Huayna Picchu.







The most important, and at the same time the most interesting, structures are located in the Temple Sector (also known as the Sacred District). They include: the Intihuatana, the Temple of the Sun and the Room of the Three Windows, all of which were dedicated to Inti, the Inca god of sun.

The Intihuatana is a ritual stone, which might have also served as an astronomic clock or calendar. Like other Inca ritual stones, also Intihuatana is arranged to point directly at the sun during the winter solstice. In addition, its four sides face four nearby mountain peaks that hold high religious importance in the Inca culture. To be honest, the stone doesn’t look too impressive, and I bet nobody would pay any attention to it if it weren’t for the archeologists telling us how important it was.


The Room of the Three Windows has, as the name suggests, three windows. Interestingly, those windows are trapezoid-shaped, as the Incas figured out that this would allow them to withstand earthquakes better.


Another masterpiece of Inca engineering is the Temple of the Sun. Its most amazing feature is its perfect curvature: quite an impressive architectural achievement, taking into account that it was built from the same big stones as other buildings.






Another thing that I found interesting about Machu Picchu was the presence of many continuously-flowing water fountains and rock-carved pipes.




The Inca utilized the nearby springs to supply water both to inhabitants of Machu Picchu for drinking and to the agricultural terraces for irrigation. Interestingly, the terraces on the hillsides surrounding Machu Picchu served a triple function: not only did they provide more farmland to grow crops, but also they protected the site from potential invaders, and from soil erosion.


The terraces are also one of the two key factors that allowed Machu Picchu to survive, in a relatively good state, till our times. The other factor—and perhaps the most significant--is that the site was never found by the Spanish during their conquest.

Machu Picchu was built around 1450, at the height of the Inca Empire, likely as an estate for the Inca emperor Pachacuti. The city was abandoned by the Incas just one hundred years later, and forgotten by the outside world for another four hundred years. It was brought back to international attention in 1911 by the American historian Hiram Bingham, and since then its popularity has been continuously growing. Every year the site is visited by several million people, and in 2007, in a worldwide Internet poll, it was voted one of the New Seven Wonders of the World.


When Machu Picchu was rediscovered in 1911, Bingham proclaimed it to be Vilcabamba¬--the last Inca refuge during the Spanish conquest. He also theorized that the complex was the traditional birthplace of the Incan "Virgins of the Sun." However, more recent archeological studies suggest that Machu Picchu was an estate of the Inca emperor Pachacuti, not Vilcabamba. Today the site is often referred to as the "Lost City of the Incas." If you would like to learn more about its history, I recommend a one-hour-long documentary “Ghosts of Machu Picchu.” It won’t answer all of your questions, but it will give you some food for thought.

All in all Anil and I spent about eight hours in Machu Picchu (of which 2 hours and 20 minutes was the hike up and down Huayna Picchu) and we still didn’t see all of it! Furthermore, we were not bored with it, and would definitely not mind spending a couple more days there. It is one of those places that the more you see of it, the more intrigued you become, and the more time you want to spend there.





There is also a very special, somewhat spiritual feel to Machu Picchu, which provides an excellent environment to reconnect with the inner self, to meditate, or to think. Amazingly, even though the site is visited by about 3,000 visitors a day, it’s large enough for everybody to find a peaceful corner just for themselves. Despite all the hype, it is a very unique place, definitely worth visiting, at least once in your life.

Saturday, December 31, 2011

Machu Picchu - Huayna Picchu Hike

Huayna Picchu (aka Wayna Picchu, “Young Peak” in Quechua) is THE iconic mountain that you can see on almost all photos of Machu Picchu. It raises about 360 meters (1,180 feet) above Machu Picchu, and offers a spectacular bird-eye view of the site.

I, of course, had to climb the mountain. And to have a shot at doing that I made my poor husband run the last few miles of the Inca Trek.

The number of people who are allowed to go up the mountain is limited to 400 a day. It might seem like a lot, but it isn’t, as every day Machu Picchu is visited by more than 3,000 people. So to have a chance of getting one of those climbing permits/tickets, you have to arrive at the Huayana Picchu ticket office quite early in the day. Until recently, the Inca Trail trekkers were at a huge disadvantage to get those tickets, as they couldn’t get to Machu Picchu earlier than 8:30-9:00 A.M. (It would not help if the Inca Trail trekker would wake up at 2 A.M., or not sleep at all. On the way to Machu Picchu, a few hundred feet past the last campsite on the Inca Trail, is a guarded locked gate that only opens at 6:30 A.M. From that gate it is another several miles and about two hours to Machu Picchu.). In contrast, the visitors who arrive to Machu Picchu by train can enter the ruins through the main gate that opens at 7 A.M. On most days, we were told, Huayana Picchu tickets would sell out by 7:30 A.M. So to have a chance of getting two of them we had no choice but to run.

As soon as we were cleared at the Inca Trail gate, we started running as fast as we could. It was not an easy or pleasant run, as we had heavy backpacks, the trail was narrow and slippery, and we had to navigate our way between other trekkers and porters who crossed the gate before us. I have to admit that we were risking serious injury running in those conditions. I had a quite epic fall, and I almost managed to break my hip bone. Luckily, my hips are well-padded and this padding saved my ass (literally). I ended up with the biggest bruise I had ever seen on anybody, which lingered with me for the next two months—a small price to pay for the fantastic views Huayana Picchu offered!

Our determination paid off when we got to the Huayana Picchu ticket office shortly after 7 A.M., almost two hours ahead of the rest of our group, and we managed to get two of the last few remaining climbing permits. (BTW, the system of issuing tickets has changed since we were there. Nowadays, one can book a ticket for Huyana Picchu online. On one hand, that’s great news for the Inca trekkers—they will not need to risk their lives (like we did) to get tickets. But there is a downside to it too: you cannot buy a ticket for Huayana Picchu alone, you have to buy a Huayana Picchu-Machu Picchu combo, which costs $55. That’s somewhat unfair, as the price of the Inca Trail permit already includes the price of entry to Machu Picchu. But if you’re determined to climb Huayana Picchu, you have no choice but to pay this double “view tax” …)

The climb to the top of Huayana Picchu, though well-worth the effort, is not for the faint-hearted. As we stood in front of the mountain, measuring it up and down, we had a hard time imagining how one could possibly climb it without proper climbing gear.


We had an even harder time imagining how, a few centuries earlier, the Inca had managed to transport building materials and construct terraces, temples, and other buildings on the top of the mountain. Some of the buildings on top of Huayana Picchu could have been a part of an astronomical observatory, while others might have served as lookout points over the city and the paths leading to it.

One of the local guides told us that the mountain top also served as a residence for the high priest and sacred virgins. Apparently, every morning before sunrise the high priest walked with a small group to Machu Picchu to signal the coming of the new day. Then and now this walk would entail climbing about 1,200 vertical feet (300 meters). Today wire and hemp ropes aid hikers in their effort, but I doubt the Inca had needed them.

I would recommend exercising a lot of caution on this hike, especially after the rain (in fact, on most rainy days Huayana Picchu is closed to visitors), and I would definitely advise against attempting this hike with kids under the age of ten, or maybe even older.

Some spouses should be spared from this hike as well. For example, my husband complained all the way up and down the mountain how steep and dangerous it was, and how stupid he had been not only to agree to do this hike, but also to run with a heavy backpack to get a permit/ticket to do it (you can hear him say that in the video I posted below). And, you know what, I think Anil would have probably been fine without going on this hike, and he only did it because I pushed him to do it. But, hey, this is what spouses are for: motivating us and pushing us to achieve the impossible. :) Today, from the perspective of time having gone by, I know that he is very proud of himself that he managed to hike Huayana Picchu in addition to the Inca Trek, and I’m happy that we lived to tell the tale.


The bird-eye view of Machu Picchu from the top of Huayana Picchu:







A beautiful orchid growing along the trail:

Saturday, November 12, 2011

Peru

Peru is an extraordinarily beautiful country with amazing landscapes and great people, but it is also an extremely popular tourist destination and because of that it can be tiring. There were so many Western tourists everywhere that already a week into our trip both Anil and I were almost ready to go back home, or at least to another country. We didn't, as we had the Inca Trek planned for the last few days of our trip.


Don't get discouraged by this introduction. As I said, Peru is stunningly beautiful and it is definitely worth a visit. However, if you plan to go there, I would suggest that you learn from our mistakes and plan your own trip better than we did.

Our vacation in Peru was only 18 days long, which meant that we could not go everywhere we wanted. For example, I would have loved to go hiking in the Cordillera Blanca, but it did not seem feasible to do it during this short trip. We made a decision to travel exclusively in the southern part of Peru, as I'm of an opinion that it is better to explore a few places in more detail, rather than many superficially. In consequence, we missed out on several interesting sights like Nazca Lines and the Cordillera Blanca. That might have been one of the mistakes we made while we planned our trip. Most famous tourist attractions are concentrated in Southern Peru, which means, unfortunately, that most of the tourists concentrate there as well.


That said, we still had a really good time travelling there. We saw a number of interesting places: Machu Picchu and other Inca sites, the Amazon Jungle, Lake Titicaca and its famous floating islands, the Colca Canyon–the deepest canyon in the world, beautiful historic cities of Cuzco and Arequipa, and Andean Condors–the largest living birds.

The uncontested highlight of our trip was a visit to the Amazon Jungle. It was both Anil's and my big dream to go there, so we were thrilled that we were able to organize it even though the rainy season had already started. We spent four days there and we loved it! Anil even expressed an interest in going back there for a month or so in the future . . . Of course, I would be in favor of that as well :)


We loved our trip to the Amazon Jungle because of the unspoiled nature, numerous interesting plants and animals, a knowledgeable guide, great weather, the opportunity to do white water rafting and zip lining, and, most of all, the feeling of being far, far away from all other people . . . So if you are looking for a bit of solitude and pristine beauty, the Amazon Jungle is just the right place for you.

In the following posts, I’m going to share more information on traveling in Peru, as well as tell you about several interesting adventures we had there.

Friday, September 24, 2010

Peru, here we come!

I am super excited and feel like jumping up and down as we managed to book permits for a 4-day Inka Trail trek to Machu Picchu that will get us there on New Year's Day! Somehow that makes me feel very excited and special. And I just can not believe how fortune I am to have the opportunity to go to this magical place, on a such special day, with a person that I love above anything else in the world :)

Arriving in Machu Picchu on New Year's Day means spending the New Year's Eve at Wiñay Wayna campsite, 2h away from the ruins. I guess that means we won't be seeing any fireworks this year, except for the ones happening in our hearts :)

All in all we will spend slightly more than 2 weeks in Peru - we are leaving from SF on 14th of December and are coming back on 3rd of January. So far we do not have a detailed plan of what to do during this time, but likely we will go hiking in the Colca Canyon, to the top of Volcani Misti, we will sightsee Cuzco and Arequipa, see some islands on the Lake Titicaca, fly over Nazca lines, and maybe visit Amazon Rainforest. Whatever we will decide to do, I am sure we will have a fantastic time.