Peruvians Are the Worst Drivers in the World

Good drivers are extremely rare in Peru. In fact, I would dare to claim that Peru has the worst drivers in the world, and definitely the worst I've ever encountered in my life. With the exception of the driver that we had in Manu NP, all other drivers that we saw were dare-devils, always playing with their own, as well as their passengers’ lives.

All in all we spent maybe 30 hours on Peruvian roads, during which we saw several accidents and multiple near-hits (a few including the bus in which we were traveling!) I felt extremely frustrated about that, because the roads in Peru are very good and not crowded at all, so there should be no accidents.

The accidents happen because Peruvian drivers think that curves are the best place to pass other cars, that the double line simply marks the middle of the road, and that driving fast in rain and/or fog is the best way of dealing with those adverse weather conditions. Sadly, I also have to conclude that Peruvian drivers do not learn. After a near-hit, they slow down for a minute or two, say prayers to God and St. Christopher (the patron of drivers), and then they go back to their old way of driving.

You might think that I’m being dramatic and overstating the situation. To prove that’s not the case, I have a movie and a few photos for you. The movie shows that not even the densest of fogs can slow down a Peruvian driver, whereas the photos show our bus ignoring the road signs (the double line, the dangerous curve sign), a truck that fell off the road as a result of speeding on a curve, and multiple crosses along the road commemorating people who got killed there. All those photos were taken during a short (mere six hours) drive from Puno to Arequipa!


Driving through the thick-as-milk fog on the way to Colca Canyon:


A few photos from a short, six-hour drive from Puno to Arequipa:

Despite all of that it was a pretty drive:

A cement factory-from a distance, it almost looked like a mirage:

The Floating Island of Uros, Lake Titicaca

The amazing floating islands of Uros easily ignite the imagination of travelers, photographers, and anthropologists. How could they not, being built in the same traditional way for the past few hundred years by the descendants of the pre-Incan people?

The Uros islands are located on Lake Titicaca, just five kilometers away from the city of Puno, and are made of totora reeds, which grow in the lake. There are 42 islands, inhabited by several hundred people. The islands differ in size but are all located in close vicinity to each other. The larger islands house about ten families, and some shared facilities (e.g., a school, a local radio station). The smaller islands house only two or three families. Between the islands the locals travel in motorized, not reed boats–crushing the romantic image that many visitors to the islands would love to cherish.

Personally, I do not have a problem with the Uros people using modern technology. I think it is quite admirable that they put so much effort into preserving the cultural heritage of their ancestors, and choose to live on and maintain the islands. In case you do not know, the reeds rot away, and have to be replaced at least every three months, if not more often. This seems like a lot of work to me, and I could not blame anybody who would like to choose an easier lifestyle and move away to the mainland. So if the motor boats, solar panels, TV sets, radios, or gas ovens make the lives of the Uros easier, I’m happy for them. Expecting them to completely stay behind the rest of the world, just to please the tourists and anthropologists, seems very egoistic to me.

On a similar note, I have no problem with the Uros trying to make money off the visitors to the islands. In the end, the islands are their home and they can decide if and when they want to have visitors, and if and how much those visitors should pay for interfering with their lives. Would I like to be an explorer who stumbled upon the undiscovered Uros tribe and got to experience their “real” life instead of watching the show they put on for tourists? Sure, I would. Is it a realistic dream? Definitely not. So instead of complaining about “commercialization” of the Uros islands, I’m going to get the most I can out of this experience and learn as much as I can about their fascinating way of life.

For example, during the visit to the islands I learned that the totora reeds are not only the building material for the islands, but are also part of the Uros’ diet and are used to cure some medical conditions. The bottom of the reed is eaten for its iodine, the white insides are used to fight pain and hunger, as well as to reduce the fatigue and hangovers (in that way they are quite similar to coca leaves), and the flowers are used to make tea. Of course, we did not miss a chance to try the totora reed and I have to say that it was quite tasty–slightly sweet and refreshing. I would not, however, enjoy having to eat it every day.

The Uros Islands:


Santa Maria Island:

The Inca Moral Code on Taquile Island, Lake Titicaca

The inhabitants of Taquile, a small island on Lake Titicaca located some 45 km offshore from Puno, follow the strict Incan moral code ama sua, ama llulla, ama qhilla (Quechua for "do not steal, do not lie, do not be lazy").

“Do not be lazy” for Taquilenos means relying on their own strength to do the majority of chores. Not only do they not use motorized equipment (e.g., cars), but they don’t even use wheel carts or farm animals. We were very impressed to see several older people carry huge loads on their backs from the docks to the main village–the elevation difference of around 200 meters (650 feet). It might not seem like much, but at 4,000 meters (13,000 feet) of altitude it is a lot. Most people in our group were gasping for air and stopping every few meters to catch their breath, while Taquilenos kept on marching at an even pace.

It is also admirable that Taquilenos do not lie and do not steal, but I guess I would expect that from all small and isolated communities. If you live on an island with only 2,200 people, you’d better make sure that you don’t make enemies with anybody!

Taquilenos are also known for their textile products, and, in 2005, "Taquile and Its Textile Art" were proclaimed by UNESCO to be "Masterpieces of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity." We wanted to buy some woven hats, but we got discouraged by their excessive price. We were interested, though, to learn that a hat’s color and the way it’s worn helps distinguish married from single men, and the ones who are looking for a wife from the ones who want to be single. So, the red hat is worn solely by married men, and the white-red by the single. If a single man is looking for a wife, he will wear the hat’s end on the side of his head, and if he is not looking he will keep the hat’s end on the back of his head. How cool and simple is that?! I’m convinced that single people in most countries would appreciate this simple system of announcing dating intentions and that it would lead to an increase in happily married couples worldwide.

Traveling in Peru–Practical Information

Traveling within Peru is easy and can be quite cheap. There are seven major ways of transportation:

(1) By foot and/or hitchhiking–It is definitely possible, but it does not seem like the most efficient way to travel. First, Peru is a quite large country (it is 2,000 km from its southern to northern border). Second, very few locals own cars, so catching a free ride might be difficult/impossible. Even if hitchhiking, you would be expected to chip in for the fuel. But I guess it is only fair that you would do that.

(2) By taxi–Within cities taxis, are the best option. A taxi ride across town will cost just few dollars ($1 to $10, depending on the distance). In bigger cities there are plenty of taxis, especially at the airports and bus stations. But it is equally easy to catch a cab in the city center and near major tourist attractions. Just do not forget to agree on a price before you get into a cab!

(3) By combis–If you would like to visit some of the smaller cities or villages, likely you will end up using combis. These are medium-size vans and/or buses that operate over short distances, between neighboring villages and cities. This is not the most comfortable way of traveling, but it’s dirt-cheap (under $1 for trips up to 50 km). Combis usually are overcrowded and stop often, but they let you get close to “real” Peruvians.

(4) By road, in a rented car–This is definitely an option, but it seems to be neither popular nor economic to travel that way. Except for the airport in Lima we didn’t see any car rental companies in Peru. However, I just quickly checked on the Internet and found that there are also several car rental companies in Cuzco. They are not cheap, however, as the daily rental price would not be less than $70 to $100. Fuel in Peru is expensive as well: it costs twice as much as fuel in the US.

(5) By bus–In my opinion, this is the most efficient and cheapest way to travel in Peru. There are multiple privately operated bus companies in Peru, all of which offer remarkably low fares by Western standards. For example, even a long-distance (about 470 km) overnight trip from Arequipa to Cuzco in a high-end bus costs only $35. The same trip with a cheaper operator likely would cost not more than $13. During our trip we sampled several bus companies (of varying service and price levels) and all of them were excellent. The buses were always clean and on time, and the seats were comfortable and reclining. The high-end bus companies offer excellent onboard services as well, such as video entertainment and food (no vegetarian options though!). For local trips, you can buy tickets on the bus itself, but for the longer overnight trips, it's best to buy tickets in advance directly from the bus company offices (e.g., located at bus stations). Most long-distance buses run during the night, but I would recommend that at least once you take a trip during the day, as the scenery outside is amazing! (Just to get an idea, take a look at my photos below, all taken during a single bus trip from Cuzco to Puno.)

(6) By train–The railway network is not well developed in Peru, and in many places it seems to be built especially for tourists. For example, Peru Rail only operates two routes (and variations of them): one from Cuzco to Machu Picchu, and the other from Cuzco to Puno/Lake Titicaca. (Shockingly, a one-way ticket to Machu Picchu costs between $56 to $300, and a similar ticket to Lake Titicaca sells for $220.) Train aficionados might be interested to know that the second highest (and until 2005 the highest) railway in the world is located in Peru. It is the Lima to Huancayo route, which crosses the Galera summit tunnel under Mount Meiggs at 4,783 meters (15,692 ft) above sea level. (Be aware, however, that the train runs only twice a month. On a positive note, this train is not as expensive as the trains departing from Cuzco. You can get a one-way ticket for $30.)

(7) By plane–It is possible to fly between major cities in Peru (Lima, Cuzco, Arequipa, and Ica are all well-connected), as well as between some of those cities and the Amazon Jungle (e.g., during the dry season there are several flights a day between Cuzco and Puerto Maldonado, and between Lima and Pucallpa). Sadly, it is a quite expensive way of traveling, as foreigners get charged two to three times more than locals!

(8) By bike/boat/skateboard/paragliding/etc.–I’m sure all of these are possible as well, but I do not feel competent enough to comment on them. Good luck to you, anyway!


Some cities in Peru, e.g., Juliaca, bear remarkable resemblance to Indian cities... They just don't honk quite enough in Peru ;)


A comfy ride in a Peruvian bus:

Beautiful landscape outside the window:

A first glimpse of Lake Titicaca: