crazy little thing called blog

The Marsh Trail, Big Cypress National Preserve

2012-01-30T12:47:00.000-08:00

As the name suggests, the Marsh Trail in Big Cypress National Preserve, navigates through a marsh, which is a favorite habitat of many birds. During a short, maybe 40-minute walk we saw many wood storks, anhingas, cormorants, egrets, herons, as well as a group of American coots.

American coots


Marsh


A wood stork

Of course, there were alligators too, and one of them was even quite active. It was swimming around always keeping at least one eye on us, with an expression of superiority and evilness on its face. Even though it wasn't too big, I still preferred to keep my distance from it. And as we were walking deeper and deeper into the park, I kept on looking back over my shoulder, worried that I might see an alligator lying across the path we just hiked, blocking our way back. I was wondering what our options would be if that would happen, as the trail was narrow and surrounded by water on both sides. Luckily, we didn't get to act out this scenario.


An alligator

In the park, we also saw many pretty butterflies. They must have been affected by the afternoon heat too, as they were not flying too much, and were nicely posing for pictures.

Queen, Danaus gilippus

White Peacock, Anartia jatrophae

Mangrove Buckeye, Junonia evarete

The Marsh Trail in Big Cypress National Preserve is located on the south side of the Tamiami Trail, 13 miles west from the intersection of Hwy 41 and SR 29.

"Das leckerste Eis auf der ganzen Welt" - Naples, Florida

2012-01-29T17:11:00.000-08:00

I'll remember Naples as the place where we got delicious, organic, home-made, preservatives-, colorants-, high-fructose syrup- and sugar-free ice-cream, and equally delicious organic coffee. A proof that ice-cream doesn't have to be loaded with additives and sugar to be delicious.

I found it curious that the organic ice-cream place (Adelheidi's Organic Sweets) was run by Germans: a lovely, chatty couple. I didn’t know that the organic-mania had already managed to spread to Europe. The owners let us taste as many flavors as we wanted before we had to pick the final five. It wasn't an easy task, as they had many interesting creations, including "mango cayenne," "strawberry basil," "cardamom," "black pepper," "carrots," and many others. I wish I could have tried them all.

The creamery has a perfect 100% score on Trip Advisor, and some people even think that it serves the best ice-cream in the world ("das beste Eis auf der Welt"). I'm not sure if I agree with that statement (I haven’t tried all ice-cream in the world, not yet anyway), but I definitely agree that a visit to Adelheidi's Organic Sweets is a must if you are within a hundred miles of the place.

Adelheidi's Organic Sweets is located on the upscale 5th Ave South, which features a variety of galleries, antique shops, coffee places, restaurants, and others shops. The street reminded me a bit of Santa Barbara, CA, though it felt less pretentious.


5th Avenue South, Naples, Florida


Dabba Doo - an alligator-restaurateur

Other than the creamery and 5th Avenue South, Naples might be worth visiting because of its beach. In 2005, its 10-mile-long sandy beach was voted "the best beach in America" by the Travel Channel. I agree that the beach in Naples is quite nice, but I don't think it deserves “the best beach” title. We saw nicer, more pristine beaches even during our subsequent travels in Florida.

Cormorant and pelicans enjoying a lunch break on the Vanderbilt Beach, Naples, Florida


A yawning pelican

A Fish-Hunting Racoon in Collier-Seminole State Park

2012-01-28T17:07:00.000-08:00

The second hike on which we embarked in Florida wasn't as exciting as the first one. Well, I guess this is to be expected: in the end, we were not in a zoo, but in a real world with animals free to go wherever they wanted.

The highlight of this hike was a raccoon trying to catch a fish right in front of our noses. As most animals we encountered in Florida, also this raccoon was completely oblivious to our presence, giving me plenty of opportunities to take close-up photos.

A raccoon in Collier-Seminole State Park, Florida

Behavior of the raccoon made me wonder if in Florida’s parks animals were paid (or somehow bribed) to parade in front of visitors. How otherwise would you explain why this raccoon decided to go hunting directly in front of the observation platform, located at the end of the 0.9-mile-long boardwalk trail?


A raccoon looking for fish

Collier-Seminole State Park, in which this short boardwalk trail is located, can also be explored through other hikes (there are over 10 miles of hiking trails), by bike (on a 3.5-mile unpaved bike trail), and canoe/kayak. The park provides canoe rentals and organizes ranger-led guided canoe trips through the mangrove swamp several times a week. We almost signed up for such a trip, but because of the timing issue we decided to go kayaking with another company.

If you don't like organized trips, and feel comfortable kayaking and navigating by yourself, you could rent a kayak and embark on a 13.6-mile canoe trail that follows the twisting Blackwater River through a mangrove forest. The park's rangers will be happy to give you the map of this trail, as well as share some navigational tips that you might need.

In the park we also saw many birds, including this graceful wood stork.

A graceful wood stork flying above our heads

Collier-Seminole State Park is located on the southern side of the Tamiami Trail, 20 miles east of Naples, and 16 miles west from the intersection of Hwy 41 and SR 29. There is a fully-developed campground (with showers), which can be booked online. It seems though that the campground doesn't fill up too quickly, so you also might try to get a spot there without a reservation.

Our First Encounter with an Alligator: Big Cypress Bend, Fakahatchee Strand Preserve State Park

2012-01-27T20:53:00.000-08:00

Alfred Hitchcock once said that "a good film should start with an earthquake and be followed by rising tension."

Well, our adventure with alligators was quite like that: the very first alligator that we saw in Florida was lying in the middle of our hiking path, and from then onwards we would see alligators everywhere, all the time.

That there were so many of them, and that we could spot them so easily, came as a big surprise to us. In fact, when we set out for our first Florida hike in Big Cypress Bend, Fakahatchee Strand Preserve State Park, we laughed our heads off upon seeing a sign warning us that "alligators have been seen laying on the trail." (BTW: The sign should say “lying” not “laying.”)

Beware: Alligators have been seen laying on the trail

We assumed that it's another one of those crazy things that Americans sometimes say to avoid any potential liability in the odd case there would be an alligator on the trail.

How wrong we were!

Just a few minutes later, and not more than 150-200 meters into our hike, there was a big alligator lying on the trail, OUR trail. It was blocking at least half of the path, and it was observing us with its mouth slightly open, displaying its big teeth. The way it was looking at us made me think that trying to pass it would not be the best of the ideas. My husband, however, was eager to go further. He was convinced that we would be fine, and that–in the worst case–we would have lost a leg. It was not a risk I was willing to take (I guess men and women are different that way), so I convinced my husband that we didn't have to complete this hike, as we can easily find another trail nearby. This reasoning worked, so we turned around and retraced our steps back to the car.

An alligator on our path!

There, another pleasant surprise was waiting for us: a beautiful great blue heron was sitting on a fence just few meters away from our car. It didn't seem to be bothered by our presence, and even let me get as close to itself as one-and-a-half meters.

The Great Blue Heron

When I tried to get closer, the heron wouldn’t fly away, but instead it would slowly walk in the opposite direction. To me its behavior shows that the animals in the Everglades National Park/Big Cypress National Preserve area are accustomed to and not afraid of people.


Look how gracefully it moves!

A few hours later we revisited the park, curious to see if the alligator would still be lying on the path. It wasn’t, so we could complete the hike. We followed a 600-meter (2,000-foot) long boardwalk through the cypress swamp to an observation platform, where we spent about half an hour patiently waiting to see if any animals would show up. But except for one anhinga, a few pretty butterflies, and a white egret looking for dinner, we didn't see any.


The Big Cypress Bend Boardwalk

A swamp near the observation platform

White Egret hunting dinner


A butterfly

A strangler fig

We were not too disappointed about it: seeing an alligator on our path a few hours later made us believe that the park was indeed full of the wildlife it promised on its webpage. (The webpage promises a chance of seeing: American crocodiles, Florida panthers, Florida black bears, West Indian manatees, Eastern indigo snakes, Everglades minks, diamondback terrapins, white-tailed deer, bald eagles, barred owls, pileated woodpeckers, swallow-tailed kites, raccoons, opossums, red-shouldered hawks, turkeys, vultures, sand hill cranes, roseate spoonbills, eagles, ospreys, ducks, wading and shore birds.) Next time we are in Florida, we’ll for sure revisit this park and try to spend there more time.


When we saw this alligator warning sign on our way of the park, we were not laughing anymore

Another great blue heron

The Big Cypress Bend Boardwalk in Fakahatchee Strand Preserve State Park is located on the north side of the Tamiami Trail (Highway 41), about 7.1 miles west from the intersection with SR 29.

Florida - First Impressions

2012-01-26T10:02:00.000-08:00

Our trip to Florida was fantastic.


Last night in Florida

We hadn't expected Florida to be so beautiful and interesting. Based on what we had heard from others, we imagined Florida to be boringly flat, and filled with college drunks and elderly retired people.

We saw a very different Florida. Yes, it was flat. And yes, Miami Beach was full of college drunks, and in some other parts, there was a significant number of older people. But there is so much more to it.

Florida might not have as beautiful and diverse scenery as California (though we were charmed by its picturesque beaches), but it does have amazing wildlife–like no other place I've ever seen outside Africa.

There were large colorful birds and alligators literally at every corner. Within five minutes of our arrival in Everglades National Park, we encountered the first alligator: it was lying in the middle of our hiking path, just 150-200 meters into our hike ... (more about this tomorrow).


The alligator on our path!

All in all we must have seen at least 200 alligators (there are almost 2,000,000 of them in Florida ...), and even a larger number of beautiful birds (we saw many great blue herons, wood storks, black and turkey vultures, cormorants, flamingos, pelicans, tricolor and blue herons, anhingas, and others), as well as a couple of rare and endangered species (key deers and manatees).

And then there is also a coral reef, the third largest in the world. We went snorkeling in it four times (plus two times off the beach), and it was just getting better and better with every time! We saw thousands of colorful Nemo-like fish (e.g., angelfish, tangs, bluestripe snappers, trumpetfish, wrasses, surgeonfish, rockfish, sharks, barracudas, and many others that I don't know the names of). It was Anil's first snorkeling experience ever, and I was happy to see how much he was enjoying himself and growing more and more confident about it.

The fact that we were able to snorkel for up to two hours without a wet suit speaks volumes about the excellent weather that Florida enjoys year-round. I should add that the day we were flying back home to California was the coldest Florida had experienced in 35 years, and it was still not nearly as cold as some days can be in San Francisco. Apparently, it never gets too hot in Florida either, which likely explains why many older people opt to move there for retirement.

The other thing that we liked about Florida were its picturesque beaches, and stunning sunrises and sunsets. Watching the sun fall asleep in the arms of the ocean is one of the most calming, transcendental even, experiences I can imagine.


Sunset on Loggerhead Beach, Bahia Honda, Florida

Sunset on Spurside Beach, Bahia Honda, Florida

The Old Bridge, Bahia Honda, Florida

This brings me to the highlight of our trip, which was a visit to Dry Tortugas National Park, located on a lonely island some 70 miles away from the nearest land. The island is the most picturesque and serene place I've been to in a while. It has absolutely perfect beaches with white sand, palm trees, and gorgeous turquoise waters; great snorkeling; and it's not crowded at all. This park alone is a good reason to visit (or re-visit, in our case) Florida.

Fort Jefferson, Dry Tortugas National Park

The last day and a half of our trip we spent in the Miami/Miami Beach area, which reminds me about a few things that we didn't like about Florida.

First, people appear to be more rude there: they don't smile, apologize, say "thank you", or ask "how are you?"; they cut into lines at grocery shops and restrooms; most drive like maniacs and start honking if you dare to wait for pedestrians to cross the street, or if you drive "too slow", which would be less than 20-30 miles above the speed limit ... Suffice to say that even my super-patient and easy-going husband started to grow frustrated and annoyed with driving in Miami after just two days.

Second, we were amazed how difficult it is to navigate streets of Miami and neighboring cities. We had forgotten our GPS at home, so we had to rely on maps, which cost us some nerves, but at the same time it also helped us to become more familiar with the city's messy layout. Like most bigger American cities, Miami has a grid system for street naming. In most cities such a grid makes finding locations easy. Not in Miami. Whoever designed its grid system must have been on coke, as it completely does not make sense. For example, would you find it obvious that to get from SW 2nd to SW 4th Avenues, you need to drive on SW 13th Street and SW 18th Terrace? Similarly, we were amused to see that one of the streets, SW 8th St, is known by at least nine names, used interchangeably: Calle Ocho, Tamiami Trail, Route 41, Route 90, Fellipe Walls Way, Olga Guillot Way, Carlos Arboleya Blvd, Celia Cruz Way, and SW 8th St.

Calle Ocho aka Tamiami Trail, Route 41, Route 90, Fellipe Walls Way, Olga Guillot Way, Carlos Arboleya Blvd, Celia Cruz Way, and SW 8th St

By the time you are done reading all of those names, you might have taken a wrong turn ...

So unless you like partying, I'd recommend avoiding the Miami area. Florida's beautiful nature and diverse wildlife is what distinguishes it from other states, and I'd recommend focusing on enjoying those. In the next few posts, I'll share with you some tips on the best places to visit for nature and wildlife viewing in Florida. Hope you'll enjoy it!

Eat More Fruits and Vegetables

2012-01-25T23:08:00.000-08:00

I'm extremely proud to report that Polish people eat the most vegetables and fruits among European nations.

World Health Organization (WHO) recommends eating ≥400 grams per day of fruits and vegetables, not counting potatoes and other starchy tubers. As you can see on the graph above, only in four European countries (Poland, Germany, Italy, and Austria) this recommendation is met (link: Fruit and vegetable consumption in Europe). Needless to say, eating fruits and vegetables is very important for one's health, and I'm happy to see that my compatriots lead the ranking at least in this category. Finally, other European countries can look up to us for something :)

Bharta

2012-01-24T23:39:00.000-08:00

This recipe for bharta (eggplant) is an excellent example of a style of cooking dominant in Indian cuisine. If you examine the list of ingredients below, you'll notice that the recipe requires twice as many spices as other ingredients! For a novice to Indian cooking, this can be quite intimidating. But I guarantee that after a few attempts to cook different Indian dishes, you'll start feeling more and more comfortable with those spices, and you might even find yourself tempted to experiment with them a bit.

Ingredients:

2 large eggplants
1/2 medium chopped onion
5 tbsp crushed roasted peanuts
5 tbsp chopped cilantro
2 tbsp olive oil
a pinch of hing
1 tsp of cumin seeds
1 tsp of mustard seeds
1 tsp of sesame seeds
1 tsp coriander powder
1 tsp cumin powder
1/4 tsp salt
1 tsp garam masala
1/2 tsp hot red pepper powder
1/2 tsp tumeric

Directions:

In the hot water simmer the eggplants for about 10 minutes. When soft, drain the water, mash the eggplant, and add the crushed roasted peanuts and the fresh chopped cilantro.
In the meantime, heat olive oil in a large saucepan.
Add a pinch of hing and 1 tsp of cumin/mustard/sesame seeds.
When the seeds pop, add the chopped onions and all the other spices (1 tsp coriander powder, 1 tsp cumin powder, 1/4 tsp salt, 1 tsp garam masala, 1/2 tsp hot red pepper powder, 1/4 tsp tumeric).
Saute until the onions are light brown.
Add the eggplant mixture, mix and serve.

Carrots with Fresh Cilantro

2012-01-23T20:32:00.000-08:00

Here is another quick and easy recipe. Of all the different ways in which carrots can be prepared, this is my favorite.

Ingredients:

3 tbsp canola oil (or olive oil)
pinch of hing
1 tsp cumin seeds
4-5 big carrots, peeled, diced
8 tbsp finely chopped cilantro
1/2 tsp cayenne
1/4 tsp salt
1 tsp garam masala
lemon juice, to taste

Directions:

To the hot oil add the hing and cumin seeds. After 15 seconds add the carrots, cilantro, cayenne, salt, garam masala, and lemon juice. Stir for a minute. Add 3 tbsp water, cover and cook for about 5 min, till carrots are tender.

Hot & Sour Vegetable Curry

2012-01-22T21:12:00.000-08:00

I adapted this recipe from Suneeta Vaswani's "Complete Book of Indian Cooking." It's rather elaborate and time-consuming, but it's also well-worth the effort. Whenever I feel like eating something a bit more sour in taste, this is the dish I prepare.

Ingredients:

sweet potato (2 cups, peeled, cut into 1 cm cubes)
potato (1 cup, peeled, cut into 1 cm cubes)
carrots (1 cup, peeled, cut into 1 cm pieces)
frozen peas (1 cup, thawed)
green beans (1 cup, cut into 2 cm pieces)
onions (2 cups, chopped)
tomatoes (1 cup, chopped)
cilantro (1 cup, chopped)
garlic (6-8 cloves, finely chopped)
ginger (2tbsp, finely chopped)
white vinegar (3/4 cup)
water (1/2 cup)
sugar (1.5 tsp)
cumin powder (1 tsp)
salt (1/2 tsp)
turmeric (1 tsp)
cayenne pepper (1.5 tsp)
oil (as little as possible)

Cut carrots

Cut sweet potatoes

Directions:

Heat 1 tbsp of oil in a nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add the sweet potato and saute until it becomes slightly brown. Set aside.
Saute the carrots as above. Set aside.
Saute the potatoes as above. Set aside.
Saute the beans as above. Set aside.
In meantime, blend the garlic and ginger with 3 tbsp of water. Set aside.
Stir the sugar into vinegar. Set aside.
Saute the onion over medium-high heat until golden.
Add the tomatoes, garlic-ginger mixture and all spices (salt, turmeric, cumin, cayenne). Mix well, cover and cook until tomatoes are soft (6-8 minutes).
Add all other veggies (sweet potato, carrots, peas, beans, potatoes). Mix.
Add vinegar and water. Mix and cook until vegetables are tender (6-8 minutes).
Add cilantro. Mix and cook for 2 more minutes.
Serve with rice, quinoa or couscous.

Hot & Sour Vegetable Curry

Kale with Raisins

2012-01-21T17:59:00.000-08:00

Here is another quick and easy recipe. This delicious recipe for kale with raisins comes from Madhur Jaffrey's "World Vegetarian."

Ingredients:

kale (~ 1 lbs, cut into fine strips) - remember to buy organic!
raisins (~ 1/2 cup)
olive oil (as little as possible)
garlic (3 cloves, peeled, lightly crashed but left whole)
hot dried red chili (1, left whole)
vegetable broth or water (2 glasses)

Directions:

Put the oil, chili, and garlic in a frying pan and set over medium-high heat. Stir until garlic becomes golden-brown on both sides.
Add the raisins. Stir once.
Add the kale, stir.
Add the vegetable stock, mix, cover and turn heat down to low.
Simmer 20-30 minutes, add salt if needed.
Serve and enjoy :)

Venetian Carrot Cake

2012-01-19T18:44:00.000-08:00

Since we are on a subject of food, I'm going to share a few recipes with you.

The first one is for a delicious almond-flour carrot cake. The recipe traveled to me from Poland, but it's actually a creation of the British cook, Nigella Lawson. The original version of the recipe can be found on the Food Network.

I introduced a few minor modifications to the recipe (e.g., I use less than a half of the amount of sugar the original recipe calls for), and I plan to further experiment with it (I think next time I'll try to add some coconut). Here is how I make it.

Ingredients:

1/2 cup olive oil
3 tablespoons pine nuts
2-3 large carrots, grated
1/2 cup golden sultanas OR cranberries
1/4 cup rum (can be omitted)
1/2 cup superfine powdered sugar OR 1/2 cup honey
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
3 eggs
2 cups almond meal/flour
1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1/2 lemon, juiced

Directions:

Preheat the oven to 350F.
Line the baking pan with baking parchment.
Toast the pine nuts in a small frying pan (without oil). Set aside.
In a small saucepan place the raisins (or cranberries) and rum (or hot water), bring to boil and simmer on low heat until most of the rum (water) evaporates.
In a large bowl whisk the sugar with olive oil until creamy.
Whisk in the eggs, vanilla, and nutmeg.
Fold in the almond flour.
Add the grated carrots and raisins (cranberries).
Lastly, add the lemon juice.
Mix well and transfer to the baking pan.
Sprinkle with the toasted pine nuts.
Bake at 350F for around 35-40 minutes.

The cake can be stored at room temperature for a few days, it can be refrigerated for up to 5 days, and it can even be frozen. It can be served warm, but tastes best when cold–then the marzipan taste comes out the most.

It's one of the easiest cakes to make. It demands no baking skills whatsoever, and it only takes 15-20 minutes of work (plus 40 minutes in the oven). At the same time it's quite delicious and all my friends that tried it, liked it too. An added bonus is that it is gluten-free, and if made with honey, it can also be served to paleo-maniacs.

How to Reduce Sodium Intake

2012-01-17T18:10:00.000-08:00

Salt-free food can be very tasty. I cook almost completely without salt and, despite that, I often receive compliments on my cooking skills.

In my household of two, a kilogram of salt lasted more than two years (which means that my husband and I consumed less than 0.7 gram of salt per person per day, well within the limits of the Institute of Medicine recommendation to reduce salt intake to less than 1.5 grams per day. (Our bodies need only 0.18-0.5 grams of sodium per day! Still, the average daily sodium intake in the US is about 3.5 grams per person, age two and older.)

If we would eat out often, or would eat processed food, we would probably end up slightly above the daily limit. Luckily, I love cooking and my husband enjoys home-cooked meals much more than eating out, so we don't have that problem. As a result, my blood pressure is usually about 90/60, and doesn't rise much even after several coffees. So you can consider me a living proof that a low-salt diet works.

Needless to say, maintaining a low-blood pressure has multiple health benefits, the most important of which is decreasing the risk of stroke and heart disease. Nearly 400,000 Americans die every year as a result of high-blood pressure. Most of these people could be saved if only we could convince them to switch to and maintain a low-sodium diet.

So how to switch to a low-sodium diet?

(1) Cook for yourself.

(2) When you eat out:

Ask that the food be prepared without added salt, MSG, or salt-containing ingredients.
Stay away from salty snacks, as well as mustard, ketchup, pickles, soy and teriyaki sauces.
Don't add extra salt.

(3) Don't buy pre-cooked foods.

Cut back on frozen dinners, especially pizza, canned soups and broths, as well as salad dressings—these often have a lot of sodium.

(4) Cook rice, pasta, potatoes, and vegetables without salt.

Cut back on instant or flavored rice, pasta, and cereal mixes, as they usually have added salt.

(5) Limit consumption of pickles, pickled vegetables, olives, and sauerkraut.

(6) Limit consumption of ketchup, mustard, and horseradish.

(7) Limit consumption of even lower sodium versions of soy, teriyaki, and barbecue sauces.

(8) Eliminate canned food, especially canned fish and ham, but also beans and vegetables.

Choose fresh or frozen products over canned. And if you have to use canned foods, rinse them well to remove some of the sodium.

(9) Use fresh poultry, fish, and lean meat, rather than canned, smoked, or processed types.

(10) Limit consumption of processed cheese.

(11) Use other spices instead of salt. Flavor foods with herbs, spices, lemon, lime, vinegar, or salt-free seasoning blends.

(12) If salt is needed, add it at the very end, just before serving food, and choose large-grain potassium and magnesium-enriched sea salt instead of regular salt.

(13) When buying food, look for no-salt-added, salt-free or low-sodium versions of foods.

Read the Nutrition Facts labels on foods to compare the amount of sodium in products. Look for the sodium content in milligrams and the Percent Daily Value. Aim for foods that are less than 5 percent of the Daily Value of sodium.

This is what labels mean:

Sodium free or salt free	Less than 5 mg per serving
Very low sodium	35 mg or less of sodium per serving
Low sodium	140 mg or less of sodium per serving
Low-sodium meal	140 mg or less of sodium per 31/2 oz (100 g)
Reduced or less sodium	At least 25 percent less sodium than the regular version
Light in sodium	50 percent less sodium than the regular version
Unsalted or no salt added	No salt added to the product during processing (this is not a sodium-free food)

(14) Conversely, increase consumption of products rich in potassium and magnesium, such as: potatoes, sweet potatoes, zucchini, kale, spinach, tomatoes, bananas, apricots, oranges, soybeans, lentils, kidney beans, split peas, almonds, milk, yogurt, lean meats, fish, and poultry.

Adapted from: link.

Pesticide-Rich Foods

2012-01-15T15:54:00.000-08:00

As I mentioned in the previous post, there are very few, if any, proven adverse health implications from consuming trace quantities of pesticides present on exterior of foods. However, there might be long-term effects of pesticide consumption that we aren't aware of yet. So I'd recommend playing it safe, and trying to limit consumption of foods which have a lot of pesticide residue.

One way of achieving it would be eating only organic food. By definition, organic produce was cultivated without use of pesticide or other harmful chemicals.

If organic food is not available where you live, or you can't afford to go purely organic, take a look at the list I posted below, and consider either limiting those foods in your diet, or switching to buying their organic counterparts. If you do that, you should be able to reduce your exposure to pesticide by 80% (link).

A list of foods that consistently have a lot of pesticide residue (based on the USDA tests conducted after a typical household preparation):

(1) Leafy Greens

Spinach
Lettuce
Kale
Collard Greens

Safer alternatives: cabbage, asparagus, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, dandelion greens.

(2) Berries

Strawberries
Blueberries
Cranberries
Cherries

Safer alternatives: kiwi, pineapple, mango, grapefruit, melons.

(3) Tree Fruits

Apples, as well as apple juice and apple sauce.
Peaches
Nectarines
Grapes, as well as raisins and wine

Peeling will help reducing exposure to pesticide residue, but it will also take away many of the fruit's most beneficial nutrients.

Safer alternatives: kiwi, pineapple, mango, grapefruit, melons.

(4) Celery

Safer alternatives: cabbage, asparagus, broccoli, Brussels sprouts.

(5) Potatoes

Safer alternative: sweet potatoes.

(6) Fatty Meats

Safer alternative: lean meats.

(7) Milk

(8) Coffee and cocoa beans (coffee, cocoa, chocolate)

And here's a list of fifteen "clean" vegetables and fruits:

(1) Onions

(2) Sweet Corn

(3) Pineapple

(4) Avocado Avocado

(5) Asparagus

(6) Sweet peas

(7) Mango

(8) Eggplant

(9) Cantaloupe (domestic)

(10) Kiwi

(11) Cabbage

(12) Watermelon

(13) Sweet Potatoes

(14) Grapefruit

(15) Mushrooms

In general, fruits and vegetables with thick skins that are removed before eating (melons, avocado, corn, etc.) tend to have the lowest amounts of pesticide residue.

Adapted from: link.

Drink Milk from Happy, Grass-Fed Cows

2012-01-13T18:08:00.000-08:00

"Organic" food is food grown without use of pesticides and chemical fertilizers.

This kind of food is growing in popularity in California, even though there aren't any proven adverse health implications associated with consuming trace quantities of pesticides.

Playing it safe, of course, cannot harm. So if you can afford buying organic food, go ahead and keep on doing it. (In California, organic food is, on average, two to three times more expensive than non-organic.)

However, know what you are paying for. "Organic" does not mean "natural." For example, buying organic milk doesn't automatically guarantee that the cows that produced the milk were grass-fed.

This is an important issue, as the composition of milk from grass-fed cows is vastly different from the composition of milk from grain-fed cows. In addition, several research articles showed that the milk from grass-fed cows is healthier for the heart, significantly reduces risk of stroke, heart attack, several types of cancer, allergies, diabetes, and may help with weight loss (you can read more on this subject here).

This prompted me to conduct some more Internet research to identify milk that comes from grass-fed cows and is easily available in San Francisco shops. I found a very informative webpage, which collected information on all "organic" milks available in the US. As per this article, some of the "organic" milks do not even deserve such name!

On this website you can find a link to a rating of all organic milks available in the US: a complete list.

Based on that list I concluded that the best organic brands of milk available in San Francisco are:

(1) Organic Valley
score: 1115/1200
from grass-fed cows, not treated with hormones or antibiotics

(2) Nature's One
score: 1100/1200
from grass-fed cows, not treated with hormones or antibiotics

(3) 365 Organic from Whole Foods Brand
score: 1070/1200
from grass-fed cows, not treated with hormones or antibiotics

(4) Clover Organic
score: 1050/1200
from grass-fed cows, not treated with antibiotics, but OXYTOCIN occasionally used!!!

(5) Sunnyside (available e.g. at SaveMart, Lucky)
score: 1025/1200
from grass-fed cows, not treated with antibiotics, hormones unclear

My Body Is My Temple

2012-01-11T09:16:00.000-08:00

When you are young you take your body for granted, as if it was a piece of machinery that can't be broken, or that could be easily repaired/replaced.

As you get older you slowly start to realize that your body can't be replaced, or easily repaired. You come to a realization that you're not as much in charge of it as you thought you were. And if you're smart, you realize that the better you treat your body now, the better it will serve you in future.

So what does it mean to "be good to your body"?

At the very minimum it means:

(1) Not smoking.

(2) Being physically active. Even as little as one hour of physical activity a week will do.

(3) Eating five servings of fruits and vegetables a day.

(4) Drinking between 1 to 14 units of alcohol per week. (A pint of 3 to 4% beer equals 2 units. A glass, 125 ml, of wine equals 1.5 units.)

If you follow all four recommendations, you will live, on average, 14 years longer than people who adopt none of these behaviors.

Isn't it amazing how easy it is? I'm sure that most of the readers of this blog follow all of these recommendations anyway. But if you don't, please start! (Here is a link to the article that describes those findings in detail: link. I critically examined this paper and trust its findings and conclusions.)

If you want to do more, consider the six other recommendations, also based on the study mentioned above:

(5) Learn how to cope with stress. One good method of doing this is through meditation. Even as little as 20 minutes of meditation a day can have a drastic positive impact on our health (link).

(6) Maintain healthy body weight. Keep your BMI between 19 to 25, or 30 even. Interestingly, people with BMI between 25 to 30 (classified as "overweight") live the longest (Portland/Canadian study; Japanese study).

(7) Eat a hearty breakfast. Consuming a higher proportion (20 to 50%) of total daily calories at breakfast is associated with relatively lower weight gain in middle age.

(8) Limit the amount of sodium you consume. Decreasing sodium intake below 1.5 grams a day will keep your blood pressure in check, and decrease your chance of stroke and heart attack. Along the same line of reasoning, eating food rich in potassium is good for you. It means you should cook your own food; processed and restaurant foods will put you way over the recommended salt intake limit.

(9) Eat fiber. Dietary fiber protects against bowel cancer, even in red-meat eaters.

(10) Do sports! Various health experts recommend different amounts and kinds of sports, but I'd still stick with the old rule: at least 3 times a week 30 minutes of whichever intense cardio activity you enjoy. Not only it will help you keep your heart healthy, but also it may help you preserve bone density and reduce the risk of fracture.

These recommendations are discussed in more detail on this webpage. The site also provides links to some relevant papers that I read and trust.

In the next few posts I'll talk about organic food and ways of limiting your sodium intake.

I Support California State Parks

2012-01-09T06:25:00.000-08:00

There are 279 state parks in California.

McWay Falls, Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park

In the five years that I have been living in San Francisco I have visited 62 of those parks. That means, statistically speaking, that I visited 12 parks each year, one park a month. At this rate it would take me another 18.5 years to see the remaining 217 parks. (And then there are also many county and regional parks that are worth a visit!)

Mono Lake

California's State Parks protect and preserve "underwater preserves, reserves, and parks; redwood, rhododendron, and wildlife reserves; state beaches, recreation areas, wilderness areas, and reservoirs; state historic parks, historic homes, Spanish era adobe buildings, including museums, visitor centers, cultural reserves, and preserves; as well as lighthouses, ghost towns, waterslides, conference centers, and off-highway vehicle parks." Almost one-third of California's scenic coastline (280 miles), 625 miles of lake and river frontage, and nearly 1.4 million acres are managed by the California's State Park System.

Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park

Sadly, only about 13 of the state's 279 parks are financially self-sustaining and, therefore, most of them could be closed any time. This brings me to the key point of this post: If you enjoy visiting the state parks and support their mission to protect the beauty of our state, please consider also supporting the parks financially by either donating your money here, or by visiting the parks as often as you can. Please also encouraging others to do the same!

Elephant Seal, Ano Nuevo State Park

Hearst Castle

Point Lobos State Park

Peru Travel

2012-01-06T16:51:00.000-08:00

In case you missed some of my posts about our 2010-2011 trip to Peru, here is a complete list:

Good Morning, New Year! Good Morning, Machu Picchu!

2012-01-01T06:15:00.000-08:00

The very first view of Machu Picchu takes your breath away.

So does the second, the third, and several after them.

It does not matter that you saw a photo of Machu Picchu thousands of times before, and you precisely knew what to expect. You still can’t quite believe how magnificent Machu Picchu and its location are. For Anil and I this experience was intensified by the fact that, due to the thick fog, we didn’t get to see the ruins till the very last moment, when they were directly in front of us.

The timing of our arrival in Machu Picchu was perfect: it was almost like we were spectators in the magical theater eagerly awaiting the beginning of a one-of-a-kind performance, and the fog was a curtain separating us from that experience. As soon as we were ready to take in the view, the fog lifted and unwrapped the gift we were waiting for: the Machu Picchu. We couldn’t have hoped for a better beginning to the New Year. It also felt special to arrive in Machu Picchu in the year marking the one-hundredth anniversary of its rediscovery.

After several hundred skipped heart beats, and thousands of “wows,” we decided it was time to explore the ruins. Only then did we start to notice all the details that collectively make Machu Picchu so unique and impressive.

First, you cannot not-notice the spectacular location of the site. Machu Picchu is located on a steep mountain ridge above a loop of the Urubamba River, which surrounds it on three sides. The city is located at an impressive 2,430 meters (7,970 feet) above sea level, on a 450-meter (1,480-feet) vertical drop. You cannot help but wonder how the Incas managed to build such an impressive site in such a seemingly inaccessible location? How did they move and place the enormous blocks of stones into their position? And why didn’t they use the wheel to move the blocks, even though they were familiar with the principle of how the wheel works?

Second, as you walk around the ruins, you can see for yourself how perfectly shaped and precisely fitted together all the building blocks are. As I mentioned in one of the previous posts, the Inca didn’t use any mortar, and the stones stay together because of that tight fit. And despite the lack of mortar, many buildings survived in good shape till our times. How many contemporary buildings will survive five hundred years? And how many of them will be considered “timeless classics?”

All in all, Machu Picchu is composed of about 140 structures, including many temples, sanctuaries, parks, and residences that include houses with thatched roofs. Those buildings are divided into three main sectors: the Temple, Urban, and Agricultural Sectors, which can be quite easily distinguished from each other from the top of Huayna Picchu.

The most important, and at the same time the most interesting, structures are located in the Temple Sector (also known as the Sacred District). They include: the Intihuatana, the Temple of the Sun and the Room of the Three Windows, all of which were dedicated to Inti, the Inca god of sun.

The Intihuatana is a ritual stone, which might have also served as an astronomic clock or calendar. Like other Inca ritual stones, also Intihuatana is arranged to point directly at the sun during the winter solstice. In addition, its four sides face four nearby mountain peaks that hold high religious importance in the Inca culture. To be honest, the stone doesn’t look too impressive, and I bet nobody would pay any attention to it if it weren’t for the archeologists telling us how important it was.

The Room of the Three Windows has, as the name suggests, three windows. Interestingly, those windows are trapezoid-shaped, as the Incas figured out that this would allow them to withstand earthquakes better.

Another masterpiece of Inca engineering is the Temple of the Sun. Its most amazing feature is its perfect curvature: quite an impressive architectural achievement, taking into account that it was built from the same big stones as other buildings.

Another thing that I found interesting about Machu Picchu was the presence of many continuously-flowing water fountains and rock-carved pipes.

The Inca utilized the nearby springs to supply water both to inhabitants of Machu Picchu for drinking and to the agricultural terraces for irrigation. Interestingly, the terraces on the hillsides surrounding Machu Picchu served a triple function: not only did they provide more farmland to grow crops, but also they protected the site from potential invaders, and from soil erosion.

The terraces are also one of the two key factors that allowed Machu Picchu to survive, in a relatively good state, till our times. The other factor—and perhaps the most significant--is that the site was never found by the Spanish during their conquest.

Machu Picchu was built around 1450, at the height of the Inca Empire, likely as an estate for the Inca emperor Pachacuti. The city was abandoned by the Incas just one hundred years later, and forgotten by the outside world for another four hundred years. It was brought back to international attention in 1911 by the American historian Hiram Bingham, and since then its popularity has been continuously growing. Every year the site is visited by several million people, and in 2007, in a worldwide Internet poll, it was voted one of the New Seven Wonders of the World.

When Machu Picchu was rediscovered in 1911, Bingham proclaimed it to be Vilcabamba¬--the last Inca refuge during the Spanish conquest. He also theorized that the complex was the traditional birthplace of the Incan "Virgins of the Sun." However, more recent archeological studies suggest that Machu Picchu was an estate of the Inca emperor Pachacuti, not Vilcabamba. Today the site is often referred to as the "Lost City of the Incas." If you would like to learn more about its history, I recommend a one-hour-long documentary “Ghosts of Machu Picchu.” It won’t answer all of your questions, but it will give you some food for thought.

All in all Anil and I spent about eight hours in Machu Picchu (of which 2 hours and 20 minutes was the hike up and down Huayna Picchu) and we still didn’t see all of it! Furthermore, we were not bored with it, and would definitely not mind spending a couple more days there. It is one of those places that the more you see of it, the more intrigued you become, and the more time you want to spend there.

There is also a very special, somewhat spiritual feel to Machu Picchu, which provides an excellent environment to reconnect with the inner self, to meditate, or to think. Amazingly, even though the site is visited by about 3,000 visitors a day, it’s large enough for everybody to find a peaceful corner just for themselves. Despite all the hype, it is a very unique place, definitely worth visiting, at least once in your life.

Machu Picchu - Huayna Picchu Hike

2011-12-31T05:28:00.000-08:00

Huayna Picchu (aka Wayna Picchu, “Young Peak” in Quechua) is THE iconic mountain that you can see on almost all photos of Machu Picchu. It raises about 360 meters (1,180 feet) above Machu Picchu, and offers a spectacular bird-eye view of the site.

I, of course, had to climb the mountain. And to have a shot at doing that I made my poor husband run the last few miles of the Inca Trek.

The number of people who are allowed to go up the mountain is limited to 400 a day. It might seem like a lot, but it isn’t, as every day Machu Picchu is visited by more than 3,000 people. So to have a chance of getting one of those climbing permits/tickets, you have to arrive at the Huayana Picchu ticket office quite early in the day. Until recently, the Inca Trail trekkers were at a huge disadvantage to get those tickets, as they couldn’t get to Machu Picchu earlier than 8:30-9:00 A.M. (It would not help if the Inca Trail trekker would wake up at 2 A.M., or not sleep at all. On the way to Machu Picchu, a few hundred feet past the last campsite on the Inca Trail, is a guarded locked gate that only opens at 6:30 A.M. From that gate it is another several miles and about two hours to Machu Picchu.). In contrast, the visitors who arrive to Machu Picchu by train can enter the ruins through the main gate that opens at 7 A.M. On most days, we were told, Huayana Picchu tickets would sell out by 7:30 A.M. So to have a chance of getting two of them we had no choice but to run.

As soon as we were cleared at the Inca Trail gate, we started running as fast as we could. It was not an easy or pleasant run, as we had heavy backpacks, the trail was narrow and slippery, and we had to navigate our way between other trekkers and porters who crossed the gate before us. I have to admit that we were risking serious injury running in those conditions. I had a quite epic fall, and I almost managed to break my hip bone. Luckily, my hips are well-padded and this padding saved my ass (literally). I ended up with the biggest bruise I had ever seen on anybody, which lingered with me for the next two months—a small price to pay for the fantastic views Huayana Picchu offered!

Our determination paid off when we got to the Huayana Picchu ticket office shortly after 7 A.M., almost two hours ahead of the rest of our group, and we managed to get two of the last few remaining climbing permits. (BTW, the system of issuing tickets has changed since we were there. Nowadays, one can book a ticket for Huyana Picchu online. On one hand, that’s great news for the Inca trekkers—they will not need to risk their lives (like we did) to get tickets. But there is a downside to it too: you cannot buy a ticket for Huayana Picchu alone, you have to buy a Huayana Picchu-Machu Picchu combo, which costs $55. That’s somewhat unfair, as the price of the Inca Trail permit already includes the price of entry to Machu Picchu. But if you’re determined to climb Huayana Picchu, you have no choice but to pay this double “view tax” …)

The climb to the top of Huayana Picchu, though well-worth the effort, is not for the faint-hearted. As we stood in front of the mountain, measuring it up and down, we had a hard time imagining how one could possibly climb it without proper climbing gear.

We had an even harder time imagining how, a few centuries earlier, the Inca had managed to transport building materials and construct terraces, temples, and other buildings on the top of the mountain. Some of the buildings on top of Huayana Picchu could have been a part of an astronomical observatory, while others might have served as lookout points over the city and the paths leading to it.

One of the local guides told us that the mountain top also served as a residence for the high priest and sacred virgins. Apparently, every morning before sunrise the high priest walked with a small group to Machu Picchu to signal the coming of the new day. Then and now this walk would entail climbing about 1,200 vertical feet (300 meters). Today wire and hemp ropes aid hikers in their effort, but I doubt the Inca had needed them.

I would recommend exercising a lot of caution on this hike, especially after the rain (in fact, on most rainy days Huayana Picchu is closed to visitors), and I would definitely advise against attempting this hike with kids under the age of ten, or maybe even older.

Some spouses should be spared from this hike as well. For example, my husband complained all the way up and down the mountain how steep and dangerous it was, and how stupid he had been not only to agree to do this hike, but also to run with a heavy backpack to get a permit/ticket to do it (you can hear him say that in the video I posted below). And, you know what, I think Anil would have probably been fine without going on this hike, and he only did it because I pushed him to do it. But, hey, this is what spouses are for: motivating us and pushing us to achieve the impossible. :) Today, from the perspective of time having gone by, I know that he is very proud of himself that he managed to hike Huayana Picchu in addition to the Inca Trek, and I’m happy that we lived to tell the tale.

The bird-eye view of Machu Picchu from the top of Huayana Picchu:

A beautiful orchid growing along the trail:

The Inca Trek, Day Four: Wiñay Wayna to Machu Picchu

2011-12-30T12:42:00.000-08:00

On the last, fourth, day of the trek we were woken up at 4:30 A.M. Despite the early hour, all of us were super-excited, as we were finally going to see Machu Picchu. Or were we? That morning was very foggy and cold, and many members of our group were skeptical whether we would actually manage to see the site.

I was not one of the skeptics. From the moment we booked our trip several months earlier, I had known that we would manage to see Machu Picchu in all its glory, and that the day we would arrive at the site would be beautiful and sunny. And I was right, the very moment Anil and I arrived at Machu Picchu, like with the touch of a magic wand, the fog and clouds lifted. But let me step back a bit, and tell you in more detail how this day unfolded.

After breakfast, we all went to the Winay Wayna restaurant, where we had to wait for about half an hour for permission to go further. For safety reasons the Inca Trail trekkers are not allowed to hike in darkness, and are required to wait for the sun to rise and light their way. To ensure that nobody breaks this rule, a few hundred feet past the Winay Wayna campsite, there is a guarded locked gate that only opens at 6:30 A.M. From that gate it is several kilometers, and about one-and-a-half to two hours to Machu Picchu.

After we were cleared at the gate, Anil and I separated from the rest of our group and started running as fast as we could. We needed to hurry, as not only did we want to visit Machu Picchu, but also wanted to climb the iconic mountain—Huayana Picchu—towering above it (more about it in tomorrow’s post). After about 30 minutes, we reached Intipunku (The Sun Gate), from which, on a good day, Inca trekkers get rewarded with a stunning view encompassing the whole site of Machu Picchu. However, we didn’t get to experience that view, as when we got there, it was still too foggy to see anything. The fog didn’t prevent me from snapping a few pictures of the Sun Gate, though.

As soon as we passed the Sun Gate, running became easier and faster, as we were finally going downhill. We were making good progress until we encountered a group of llamas. They looked so cute with their super-long eyelashes and big innocent eyes that, even though we were in hurry, we just had to stop and play with them. They seemed to be well-accustomed to tourists, and didn’t mind being touched.

We had so much fun with the llamas that we didn’t even realize that, in meantime, the fog had slowly started lifting.

And within seconds after we parted with the animals, the fog almost completely disappeared, revealing a breathtaking view of Machu Picchu directly at our feet. It was an almost mystical experience that I will never forget. (In fact, it was such a special moment that I decided to dedicate a separate post to it. It will appear here on 1st of January 2012, on the first anniversary of our arrival in Machu Picchu.)

As we were on a mission to get tickets for the Huayana Picchu mountain, we didn’t have time to admire the view for too long. After we snapped out of the awe, I quickly took a few pictures, and we headed towards the main entrance to Machu Picchu, where we had to show our tickets to a guard. We left our backpacks at the luggage storage, and again we started running all the way across Machu Picchu to the Huayana Picchu entrance. At least all this running paid off, and I’m proud to report that we managed to get one of the last few permits to climb the mountain. As you’ll be able to read in my post tomorrow, the climb to the top of the mountain was spectacular and well-worth the effort. A lesson: if you really want something really badly, and you’re willing to work very hard to get it, usually you’ll manage to achieve your goal, and a nice reward will be waiting for you at the end of the road :)

Winay Wayna Ruins on the Inca Trek, Day Three

2011-12-28T18:12:00.000-08:00

Wiñay Wayna ruins are located near the last campsite on the Inca Trail. Unexpectedly, we had a lot of trouble finding the ruins, and we only managed to get to them after the sun hid behind the mountains, even though we arrived at the campsite a good few hours before sunset. It was a pity, as the site looked very interesting, and I would have loved to have more time to explore it.

Wiñay Wayna means “Forever Young”—a name given to the site after a variety of a pink orchid that grows there. Similarly to Intipata, these ruins have a spectacular location, as they are perched on a cliff overlooking the Urubamba River below, and a waterfall on the hillside above. There are also many magnificent agricultural terraces in Wiñay Wayna. However, what distinguishes this site from Intipata is the presence of multiple buildings of good quality stonework. Those buildings are connected by a sequence of fifteen baths, which suggest that Wiñay Wayna was probably a religious center associated with the worship of water. It is speculated that a ritual cleansing may have taken place here for pilgrims on the final leg of their trip to Machu Picchu.

Intipata Ruins on the Inca Trek, Day Three

2011-12-27T16:05:00.000-08:00

Shortly after we left “Town in the Clouds” we got to “Sun Terraces” (Intipata). As the name suggests, this site receives a lot of sun. The clever Inca must have known it too, as they set up a huge agricultural complex there. The food from here is believed to have supplied nearby Machu Picchu as well. The size, the location, and the architectural beauty of the site yet again reminded us how amazingly well-developed and knowledgeable the Inca civilization was.

Sayaqmarka Ruins on the Inca Trek, Day Three

2011-12-26T18:10:00.000-08:00

Saycamarca--“Inaccessible Town”--lies at 3,600 meters above sea level, on the tip of a very prominent ridge. It’s the location that earned the town its name: from three sides it’s protected by sheer cliffs, and it can only be accessed from the fourth side by a steep staircase of 98 steps edged in the mountain. Seeing those beautiful ruins placed in a seemingly inaccessible location made me wonder if the Inca had built this town just to prove that they could.

My theory is as good as the one presented by archeologists and historians who investigated the ruins. They also have no clue. They speculate that Saycamarca simply served as a rest-stop town on a way to Machu Picchu. But I don’t think that’s the whole story. Why would the Inca go through so much trouble to build a rest stop in such an inaccessible place? And why would they build a Temple of the Sun (a solar observation post) in that town? Let’s hope that archeologists will figure it out.

Phuyumatamarca Ruins on the Inca Trek, Day Three

2011-12-25T18:07:00.000-08:00

Phuyupatamarca (“Town in the Clouds”) lived up to its name and presented itself to us surrounded by dense, dark clouds. It almost seemed like the clouds tried to protect the town from us; first by obscuring the view, and then by soaking us wet with rain.

However, it is not easy to discourage me from sightseeing. This rain didn’t manage to prevent me from walking around the ruins, and the surrounding agricultural terraces and ceremonial baths. The precise role of the baths is not known, but it is thought that they were used for the ritual worship of water.

Runkurakay Ruins on the Inca Trek, Day Three

2011-12-24T12:09:00.000-08:00

Even though Runkuracay was the smallest of the ruins that we saw along the Inca Trail, they are the ones I remember the best (except for Machu Picchu, of course).

Runkuracay stuck in my memory because of its spectacular location and perfectly circular shape. This site is a true testimony to how amazingly advanced and rich the Inca civilization was at its prime. It seems like there was no task too difficult for them: they could build anything they wanted, anywhere they wanted. It’s even more admirable if you take into account that they did not use mortar, and that despite that, many structures survived in a pretty good shape till this day.

It’s unknown what the purpose of Runkuracay ruins was but, as it occupies a commanding position overlooking the Pacamayo Valley below, it’s likely that it served as a lookout point.

The Inca Trek, Day Three: Pacamayo to Wiñay Wayna

2011-12-23T17:51:00.000-08:00

The third day of the Inca Trail was the most interesting one, as there are many Inca ruins along the way (namely Runkuracay, Sayacmarca, Phuyupatamarca, Intipata, Wiñay Wayna). All of these ruins were very interesting, each in its own way, so I decided that they deserved to be described in more detail, and I dedicated a separate post to each one of them. These posts will be appearing here during the next few days.

The ruins were not the only reason for which the third day of the Inca Trek was interesting. It was the longest day, during which we hiked 15 kilometers, and, for the most part, we walked on the original Inca pavement. We passed two tunnels carved into the rock, and we were surrounded by a magical cloud forest full of orchids, hanging mosses, ferns, and other flowers. Also the views from the trail were spectacular, especially from the top of the second (Abra de Runkuracay, 4,000 meters) and the third pass (3,700 meters). We could see the snow-capped Veronica (5,750m) and Salkantay (6,180m), and the valleys lying at their feet.

But, most importantly, all the ruins we saw along the way were reminding us that we were getting closer and closer to Machu Picchu. We were less than a day away from the culmination of our trip, and we were getting very excited about it. At the same time, we also felt quite peaceful—the beautiful nature has its calming ways. In fact, it calmed us down so much that we didn’t feel the need to wait till midnight to greet the New Year. And even the fireworks, which lasted for a good hour, didn’t motivate us to leave our warm tent, and join the festivities that were taking place at the nearby restaurant. By far, we felt much more excited about the following morning, and we wanted to get a good night’s sleep before the day we had been looking forward to for so long: New Year’s Day in Machu Picchu.

Happy-New-Year-Cake from our amazing cook and porters. Anybody have ever tried to bake a cake while backpacking?

On the last evening of the Inca Trek the porters joined us for the celebratory cake, giving us an opportunity to express our gratitude to them.

The Inca Trek, Day Two: Wayllabamba to Pacamayo

2011-12-22T17:47:00.000-08:00

The second day of the Inca Trail was the most physically challenging. The distance we had to hike was the same as on the first day (12 kilometers/7.5 miles), but the elevation change was much bigger. First we had to climb over 1,200 meters (4,000 feet), and then descend 700 meters (2,500 feet) on steep, slippery and unequal stone steps. And all that at an altitude of 3,500 to 4,200 meters (11,500 to 13,800 feet), which makes breathing somewhat difficult.

The highest pass of the trail is called “Dead Woman's Pass” (Abra de Huarmihuañusca), and many believe that it is named after a woman who died there from exhaustion a few years earlier. Our guide, however, maintained that the name refers to the shape of the mountain near the pass, which resembles a sleeping woman. He could not explain, though, how come the pass was called “dead” and not “Sleeping Woman’s Pass.”

Anyway, before our trip, both Anil and I had been a bit worried that we might succumb to altitude sickness, and have a hard time on that second day of the hike. Neither of us had been so high in the mountains before, so we had had no idea how our bodies would react to the high elevation. So about half a year before the Inca Trek we had started an intensive, self-imposed training program, which involved going hiking every weekend, and walking up and down the steepest hill in our neighborhood at least twice a week. I’m proud to report that thanks to this regime, we were both in an excellent shape; it showed during the Inca Trek, as we could hike much faster than all of our travel companions. On some days we were twice as fast, on others three times as fast, as the slowest person in our group. If we had had to hike as slow as this person, it would have been extremely frustrating for us. But, luckily, our guide quickly recognized that, and allowed us to separate from the rest of the group, and hike at our own speed. It was great for us, as even though we were a part of a bigger group, we felt independent and free to do what we wanted.

I have to admit that even for us (Anil in particular) the “Dead Woman’s Pass” was quite challenging, and we felt a great relief when we finally reached it. We were hoping to take a longer break there to recover a bit, but it was close to impossible because of freezing winds. So, shortly after we took a photo commemorating our achievement, we started a descent to Pacamyo (3,600 meters), where our campsite was already waiting for us (we could see the colorful tents form the top of the mountain). This last bit of the trail was unexpectedly difficult. We were finally walking on the real El Camino Inca, only to learn that the Incas—who could build perfectly shaped and symmetric houses—preferred to build unequal steps. You can imagine that walking down the stairs for about 700 meters can be rather hard on the knees. Now add to this picture steep and slippery steps of varying height, and you’ll understand better why we didn’t enjoy too much this part of the trek. You might be interested to know that we figured out that it is better to run down rather than walk on this part of the trail. But then, you have to be extra cautious not to slip and fall down (as I almost did).

Views and flowers on the way to the pass.

As we were getting closer to the pass, the trail was getting steeper.

Finally there!

On the way down.

Not surprisingly, at the end of that day, we were super-hungry.

The Inca Trek, Day One: Cusco to Wayllabamba

2011-12-21T17:44:00.000-08:00

The Inca Trail is a 43-kilometer (26-mile) hike through the Andes, culminating at the magnificent Inca ruins of Machu Picchu. The trail follows the ancient El Camino Inca—“The Inca Road,” and passes many impressive Inca ruins, as well as a beautiful cloud forest and mountains. It takes four days to hike this trail, so I decided to dedicate four posts to it: one post per each day we spent on the trail.

The first day of the trek was quite easy and relaxed. It started early in the morning with a bus ride to “Kilometer 82”—the starting point of the trail, from which it was another 12 kilometers (7.5 miles), this time by foot, to the first campsite.

At 5:30 A.M. we were picked up from our hotel, and two hours later we found ourselves at the picturesque town of Ollantaytambo, where we stopped for breakfast. It’s a pity that we didn’t have time to explore Ollantaytambo, as with many well-preserved buildings dating to the Inca times it looked very interesting.

The breakfast gave us the first opportunity to get acquainted with our travel companions for the next few days. It took us just a few minutes to realize that some of them wouldn’t do too well on the trek. One woman was wearing a fancy knee-length coat, a very long pashmina, and fashionable sunglasses that she needed to push back on her nose every few minutes. Her husband wore a bit more appropriate clothes, but had so much trouble filling up their camel bags that I was convinced that it must have been the very first time in his life that he had done it. Then, another family of five only got an idea to buy raincoats and trekking poles the moment our bus was about to depart Ollantaytambo. I’m not sure if I was more amazed by the fact that they didn’t bring the raincoats with them in the first place (we were there in the middle of the rainy season), or that they only decided to buy them after we all boarded the bus, and were ready to leave for the trailhead. Later, we also learned that the same group of people didn’t have enough common sense to plan their trip in a way that would allow them to get acclimatized to the high altitude before embarking on the trek … The sad consequence of that was that they were super-slow throughout the trip, and even experienced some of the typical altitude sickness symptoms, despite taking medication against it.

After we finally managed to leave Ollantaytambo, we drove for another half an hour till we reached a staging area near Kilometer 82. There, our porters were already waiting for us, and as soon as our bus stopped, they frantically started repacking the supplies we had brought (the food, gas bottles, tents, tables, chairs, etc.). By the time our trekking companions were ready to start hiking, most of the porters were already half way to the campsite. Despite carrying a serious load, they had to walk very fast (some of them even ran), as it was their responsibility to set up a temporary campsite and prepare lunch for all of us somewhere along the way to our final destination for the day.

The weather was a bit gloomy when we started hiking the Inca Trek, but our spirits were high. We were all very excited about the adventure that was about to begin. After our hiking permits and passports were checked by a governmental official, we crossed a bridge on the Vilcanota River and followed a trail leading up into the mountains and away from the river.

As we were climbing higher and higher, our enthusiasm suffered a decline; but as the views were getting better and better, it quickly soared back up. The first semi-interesting thing that we saw along the trail were the ruins of a former fort, Huillca Raccay, which controlled the entrance to the Cusichaca valley.

A few minutes later, we encountered the second ruins of the day, which were much more impressive. They go by two names: Llactapata (“Town on the Hillside” in Quechua) or Patallacta, and they were primarily used as an agricultural station that supplied Machu Picchu with maize, the staple crop of the Incas. The settlement was quite extensive and comprised over one hundred buildings. Some of them had been inhabited by farmers, while others by soldiers protecting the access to El Camino Inca and Machu Picchu. Interestingly, during the Spanish invasion, the Incas had burned this site, along with a number of other settlements along the Inca trail, to discourage Spanish pursuit. This strategy has worked quite well, as the Spanish never discovered the Inca trail or any of its settlements, allowing us to enjoy the Inca masterpieces till this day.

After leaving Llactapata, the trail started gently climbing for about 2 kilometers (1.25 miles), before it flattened as it followed the left bank of the river up for another 7 kilometers (4 miles). From parts of this trail there were great views of the Cordillera Urubamba (the Urubamba mountain range) and the snow-capped peak of Veronica (a 5,860-meter mountain).

A hummingbird.

Along the way we passed through several small villages, and in one of them we stopped to have lunch. The lunch was prepared by our porters, but I’m hoping that our travel agency paid some money to the local people to compensate them for the inconvenience caused by our presence.

As you can see in the photos below, the lunch we were served (as well as all the other meals that we received on the trail) was very elaborate. It consisted of a salad, a soup, a main course, and a dessert—not quite the same meal most backpackers are used to while on a long trek.

Examples of salads we were served.

Soup.

Main course.

Typical breakfast.

Sample desserts.

It was a wonderful treat, which we deeply appreciated, but at the same time I just couldn’t stop feeling bad for the porters who had to carry all this food, as well as the chairs, tables, tents, gas bottles, plates, and cutlery that we got to use.

I hadn’t expected such an elaborate setup, and I would have been more comfortable sitting on a blanket spread out on the grass, and eating a simpler meal. I’m not a princess, and I don’t like being treated like one. Don’t get me wrong: if I were super-rich, I would probably hire a chef, a driver, and a personal assistant to work for me full-time. I have no problem outsourcing some of the mundane tasks that I do not enjoy (like cleaning and driving), or do not have time for (like cooking and shopping). What I have a problem with is taking advantage of the inequality in wealth distribution throughout the world, and, e.g., hiring porters in poorer countries for a fraction of the cost it would be in your home country. Either carry your gear yourself, or pay them what you would have to pay to a porter in your own country.

After lunch we hiked for about two more hours before we finally arrived in the small village of Wayllabamba (located at 3,000 meters), where we spent the following night in the campsite set up by our amazing, underpaid porters. There, again, I was shocked to see that each couple was assigned to sleep in a four-person tent, instead of a two-person tent. Could someone explain to me what’s the logic behind that and why the porters have to carry so much extra weight? I, for one, felt extremely uneasy about it, and felt so ashamed that I almost couldn’t look the porters in the eyes. And reminding myself that at least they had jobs, and earned above-average (for their country) wages, was not helping. Small things like this tainted my enjoyment of the nature and the ruins along the Inca Trail, and were the reason I found the Inca Trek morally dubious. I’m not sure, though, what would be the alternative. Maybe encouraging somebody to start a new, “fair-trade-like,“ travel agency?

Christmas in Peru: Nativity Scenes

2011-12-18T18:48:00.000-08:00

No “Jingle Bells”, no chocolate Santa Clauses, no heavy advertising, and no shopping craze.

Instead: Nativity Scenes, panettone, and joyful, yet peaceful, family celebrations. Compared to most (if not all) Western countries, Christmas in Peru much more closely resembles what Christmas was meant to and should be: spending quality time with your family, and–for Catholics–religious reflection.

The importance of the latter in Peruvian Christmas tradition manifests through the ubiquitous presence of Nativity Scenes. They were everywhere: in the shops and restaurants, in travel agencies, at the bus stations, in churches and cathedrals, at city squares, and in most households.

Traditional Peruvian Nativity Sets are handmade and often have a local “flavor.” Not only are they made with local resources (e.g., wood, clay, etc.), but also they incorporate local scenes, costumes, and animals. It also seems that Peruvians think that the more, the better; and try to squeeze in as many characters in their nativity scenes as possible. You’ll find there not only the typical figures representing the infant Jesus, Mary, Joseph, the Magi, shepherds, angels, an ox, an ass, and a sheep, but also such exotic animals like an elephant, a llama, a kangaroo, a giraffe, a flamingo, or even a cartoon character Snoopy dog!

In fact, some of the Nativity Scenes that we saw had hundreds of figurines, and–to my European eye–looked quite kitschy. But at the same time I felt very appreciative of Peruvian inclusiveness and open-mindedness. In the end, this is what Christmas should be about: all of us being one big caring and loving family. Do not forget that during this coming Christmas!

Political Advertising in Peru

2011-12-17T06:44:00.000-08:00

Good news: In Peru, there are hardly any billboards with ads for Coca-Cola, Pepsi, chips, chewing gum, and other similar products. In fact, the few ads that we saw were all concentrated in and around airports and bus stations.

Bad news: Where typically you would see those ads, instead, you will see a painting or poster promoting a political party. Those ads were everywhere: painted on the walls both of abandoned buildings and inhabited houses, etched into the side of mountains, and (less often) on billboards or bumper stickers.

I found it particularly curious that the Peruvians didn’t mind having their houses “decorated” with those kinds of paintings, especially since I found many of the ads ugly. I guess that shows how passionate the Peruvians are about whom they support politically.

Another peculiar thing about the ads was that each of them contained an image–a pictogram–depicting what the party stands for (e.g., there was a soccer party, a shovel party, a sunshine party, a bread party, a coconut party, and many other–equally interesting–parties). I found those images amusing and tried to take photos of as many of them as possible to share here with you. I hope you’ll enjoy them too!

In case you wonder why each party has a pictogram next to its name, the answer is quite simple. The voting ballots contain a list of parties alongside with logos, and the voters indicate their preference by marking a cross through that logo. I’m not sure if that means that there are many illiterate people in Peru, or if the government simply wants to make voting for everybody as easy as possible. In either case, I think the logos are a great idea.

The presidential elections were won by Ollanta Humala, a Peruvian Nationalist Party candidate. While doing research for this blog post, I learned that Ollanta’s party used non-permanent tattoos as one of their marketing tools.

The White City of Arequipa

2011-12-15T17:40:00.000-08:00

Arequipa is the city in which I first lost, and then regained, my faith in humanity. Our saga with Andina Travel Services was the reason why I felt disillusioned with people. But, luckily, just a few hours after that disappointing experience, a kind stranger who welcomed us to his home helped me remember that most people are good, and that humanity should not be judged based on a few rotten apples.

With a population of almost a million, Arequipa is the second most populous city in Peru. For comparison, Cuzco is inhabited by half a million people, but it feels several times smaller than Arequipa. I think one reason might be that Cuzco seems more traditional and old-fashioned, whereas Arequipa feels much more modern. In Arequipa, there seem to be more taller buildings, as well as more companies and universities. In Cuzco we saw many people in traditional Peruvian outfits, whereas in Arequipa everybody was wearing more modern, Western-style clothes.

This doesn’t mean that there are no interesting buildings in Arequipa, just the opposite. The city was founded in 1540 by Spanish conquistadors, in a valley formerly inhabited by successive pre-Hispanic cultures, and many of the city’s colonial-era buildings survived in great condition till our times. Because of those buildings, the historic center of Arequipa was inscribed on the UNESCO’s World Heritage Sites List.

Also the location of Arequipa is spectacular. The city lies at the foot of a 5,822 meter-high (19,100 feet) volcano (El Misti), after which it derives its name: ariq qipao means "land or place behind the volcanoes." The volcano contributed to the city’s nickname as well. In Peru, Arequipa is known as “La Ciudad Blanca” (The White City), as most buildings in the city are built of sillar, a pearly white volcanic rock.

Arequipans are very proud of their city, its beauty, cultural heritage, and location near the volcanos (all in all, seven volcanos are within close vicinity of the city). The city inspired many of its inhabitants to become writers/poets. For example, one of the most famous Peruvian writers alive, Mario Vargas Llosa, the winner of the 2010 Nobel Prize of Literature, was born and lives there. And another famous Peruvian writer, Manuel Gonzales Prada, is famed for saying: "Not in vain were we born at the foot of a volcano” (No se nace en vano al pie de un volcán).

While wandering on the streets of Arequipa and taking photos of its central square—Plaza de Armas—we met another proud Arequipan. Seeing me with a camera, he stopped rushing wherever he was going, and started a conversation with us in which he invited us to the roof of his house. He insisted that the views from up there were unsurpassable, and that going there would give me an opportunity to take great pictures of the square, the city, and El Misti (the volcano). Seeing that we weren’t comfortable going to his house without him, the kind stranger changed his plans, turned around, and took us back to his house, and up the stairs to its roof.

I loved every minute of this adventure. I loved the views from the top, but even more I loved the fact that somebody—a selfless stranger—would alter his plans to share with us his love and admiration for Arequipa. While we enjoyed the views of the city, the nice man told us the story behind Arequipa’s name, and shared with us his observations on the changes that had occurred in the city during the 30+ years that he had been living there. I was so absorbed by his story that I hardly took any pictures. It’s a pity, as those photos would have been spectacular. Not only were the views from the top fantastic, but also the time of the day was perfect for taking pictures: we were there a few minutes before sunset, the soft light of which made the white buildings of Plaza de Armas look even more picturesque and dreamlike. But not every memory has to, or can be, immortalized on film. Some of them—like this one of a kind stranger who helped me regain my faith in humanity—are so special, that they will always live on in us, and make us feel warm inside even when we recall them 20 years from now.

Curiously, Plaza de Armas in Arequipa was inhabited by thousands of pigeons. The locals seemed not to mind their presence.

And here is another gem that we found in Arequipa. Can you recognize the people on the poster?

Cruz del Condor

2011-12-13T15:24:00.000-08:00

When a majestic condor soared directly above my head and my camera refused to take a photo of it, I almost burst into tears.

I could not believe my bad luck: when we stopped at the Cruz del Condor viewpoint three days earlier, we hardly could see the tip of our nose, let alone condors; now, when the weather was perfect and condors were there, my camera decided to stop working!

I quickly collected myself and started investigating the camera to see what might be a source of the problem. Soon enough I realized that the problem lay in my telephoto lens, not the camera. That made me feel somewhat better, as I could survive without good photos of condors, but not having the possibility of taking photos of Machu Picchu, and other ruins along the Inca Trek, would have been disastrous.

Anyway, just in time before the next condor flew close to me, I managed to make my telephoto lens start taking pictures again. Unfortunately, the lens would only work with a manual focus … Because of that, my condor photos are not as good as they could have been. Still, I’m quite proud of myself to manage to shoot a few good ones, despite all these obstacles.

The Andean Condor is a truly impressive bird. It has the largest wingspan (at 3.2 m or 10.5 ft.) of any land bird, but despite its large size it looks unbelievably graceful and majestic when it soars through the air in search of carrion (it’s a scavenger). It’s found only in the Andes and adjacent Pacific coasts of western South America, and it’s considered nearly threatened. Interestingly, California–home to the California Condor, the second largest bird in the world–has instituted a successful captive breeding program for the Andean Condor as well.

The Andean Condor is also one of the world's longest-living birds, with a lifespan of up to 100 years in captivity. Despite its long lifespan, it mates for life and both parents are involved in the egg incubation. (Maybe the lesson we should learn here is that the monogamy and strong family ties are good for you?)

The condor flaps its wings on rising from the ground, but afterward it relies on thermals to stay aloft. It soars with its wings held horizontally and its feathers bent upwards at the tips.

The Andean Condor is mostly black in color, except for the head and neck, which are dull-red and nearly featherless. It also has a ruff of white feathers surrounding the base of its neck, and might have large white patches on the wings.

Backpacking in Colca Canyon with a Friendly Dog Companion, Day Three

2011-12-12T17:41:00.000-08:00

Anil and I woke up before the sun, and as soon as its first rays hit the mountains towering above the canyon we started an ascent back to civilization. The hike to the canyon’s rim was surprisingly tough. I think it took us nearly four hours to climb about 1,100 meters (3,700 feet) of elevation change, and we were quite tired once we did it. I guess it didn’t help that we carried heavy backpacks …

A few minutes into our hike we encountered two stray dogs. One of them quickly developed warm feelings for us (even though we didn’t give it any food), and decided to hike with us all the way to the canyon’s rim! Needless to say, the dog could hike much faster than we could, and if it had wanted, it could have reached the canyon’s rim in the fraction of time we did. Still, to our great surprise and amusement, the dog decided to stick with us and adapt to our slow speed. Every time the dog found itself ahead of us, it stopped to wait for us. Sometimes it would lie down and rest, and sometimes it would keep itself busy looking around and checking out the views, but only when we caught up with it, would it start going farther. The dog stayed loyal to us even when other hikers were passing us.

Anil and I were so deeply touched by the dog’s behavior that we promised to buy it a nice meal once we would all get to the village at the canyon’s rim. However, once we got there, the dog decided to part ways with us before we managed to fulfill our promise. I guess it decided that its job was over: it safely escorted as to the top, so it assumed that we didn’t need its guidance anymore. We felt sad about the dog leaving, as we truly wanted to reward it for its faithfulness, patience, and perseverance. The dog’s company, in addition to great views, made this hike unforgettable.

Christmas Eve in the Oasis at the Bottom of Colca Canyon, Day Two

2011-12-11T10:01:00.000-08:00

“Dear Parents,

I hope this postcard finds you well. I’m thinking about you warmly and sending you best Christmas wishes, as I’m sipping my cocktail, sitting in an outdoor swimming pool located in a small oasis at the bottom of the deepest canyon in the world. We would have loved to share the Christmas with you, in cold, snow-covered Europe, but, hey, this isn’t too bad either.

Love, Monika and Anil.”

—I sent this postcard to my parents from the bottom of Colca Canyon. It was somewhat mean, I know, but I just couldn’t resist the temptation to brag about our awesome Christmas. The spectacular beauty of the oasis soothed any feelings of remorse associated with being far away from the family. And taking a swim in a pool fed by the water from a natural waterfall is a memory that I’ll cherish for a long time.

In the evening, we all gathered for a Christmas dinner, after which we all shared a traditional Peruvian panettone cake and a bottle or two of wine.

Earlier that day, on the way to Sangalle (the oasis), we passed through the village Cosñirhua, founded in Spanish colonial times.

Backpacking in Colca Canyon, Day One

2011-12-10T15:49:00.000-08:00

The drive to Colca Canyon was remarkably beautiful, despite being deadly dangerous. In particular, I truly enjoyed driving through the high-altitude Andes, which looked gorgeous under a blanket of fresh snow. The highest pass was at about 4,970 meters/17,000 feet, which is the highest I had ever been in my life.

We also passed some pre-Incan terraces, which had been continuously cultivated—using the same farming techniques—since the 15th century. For that reason I found the terraces fascinating, and because of their perfect geometry I found them also aesthetically pleasing.

After about four hours of driving, we arrived at Cruz del Condor—the best place in the world to see the Andean Condor. However, not on the day we got there: the fog was so thick that we could barely see our stretched arms. So even if there were thousands of Condors flying above our heads, we had no chance to see any of them. (We had more luck on the way back, but more about that later.)

Also our hike to the bottom of the Canyon started in a thick fog. Luckily, after a half an hour or so, the fog partially lifted and we got to see the beautiful Canyon, and even a few Condors flying above it.

Colca Canyon, at 13,650 feet (4,160 m) depth, is more than twice as deep as the Grand Canyon, and it might be the world's deepest canyon. In fact, two Polish expeditions, one that took place in 1981 and the other from 2005, proclaimed Colca the world's deepest canyon. As such it was also recognized by the Guinness Book of Records and National Geographic Society. However, others claim that Cotahuasi Canyon—another canyon nearby—is a tiny bit deeper. The argument is ongoing. (Isn’t it amazing that, despite all the amazing technological advances, we cannot conclusively answer this question?)

No matter what the outcome of this argument, I think the point is moot. Colca Canyon might be the deepest in the world, but it’s not even half as spectacular as the Grand Canyon. First, the walls of Colca Canyon are not as vertical as those of the Grand Canyon, and also its “deepness” is measured in a misleading way. In case of the Grand Canyon, what you see is what you get: its depth is measured from the Colorado River to the canyon rim on which the view points and access road are located. In the case of Colca Canyon, the depth is measured from the Colca River to the top of the highest mountain peak located near the canyon, and not to the canyon rim, where, e.g., the Cruz del Condor, Cabanaconde, and the beginning of the hike, are located. This means that the hike to the bottom of Colca Canyon is way easier than the hike to the bottom of the Grand Canyon, and it’s only around half the distance and two-thirds of the elevation change.

Second, also in the beauty category, the Grand Canyon is the uncontested winner. The rocks of Colca Canyon are mostly grayish, whereas in the Grand Canyon you can find a spectrum of colors from orange to brown, from red to violet. This doesn’t mean that Colca is not pretty, it’s just not as beautiful as the Grand Canyon.

All in all, the hike to the bottom of Colca Canyon was quite easy, and it took us about three to four hours (including the breaks to enjoy the views and to snack). On our way we met several locals in traditional outfits, we saw several interesting plants (including a cactus from which the Incas used to make purple and blue dies), and a few interesting animals (e.g., the Condors, but also parrots, hummingbirds, and a fox), which made the hike more interesting. We also had several interesting conversations with our hiking companions (two couples: one Dutch, one Canadian) but, to be honest, at that point in time we would have preferred to be exploring the canyon on our own.

That night we spent in simple cabins, in the small town of Juan of Chuccho, where we also were served a quite good dinner. If we had asked for it, the main course could have been a fried, freshly-caught-and-killed, guinea pig. We were appalled by the idea, and we were grateful that none of our co-travelers felt like eating it either. Instead, we all got a chance to taste “frozen” potatoes—another Peruvian specialty, tasting a bit like dried soaked prunes—and we learned that Peruvians cultivate several thousand different species and subspecies of potatoes! Before that evening I had thought that Ireland, Poland, and Russia were potato kingdoms, now I know that this title should go to Peru.

Our Adventure with the Unreliable Travel Agency, Friendly Police, and Super-Helpful iPeru

2011-12-09T17:53:00.000-08:00

Despite knowing better, we decided to go on a three-day backpacking trip in Colca Canyon with a travel agency. At that time, it seemed like the most time-efficient option (and time was our limiting resource).

After visiting several travel agencies, we decided to entrust our lives and money to Andina Travel Services, mostly thanks to positive recommendations the agency had received from Magda and Przemek. Sadly, though, our experience with Andina Travel Services was pretty bad and we even ended up reporting them to the police!

First, the agency lied to us about the size of the group with which we were to backpack in Colca Canyon. They told us that we would only go there with two or three other people. However, next morning when the bus came to pick us up, there were more than 20 people onboard! All of these people were as surprised to see a full bus as we were, and had also been assured that they would hike with only a few other people. Based on that, I have to conclude that lying is a standard technique that Andina Travel Services uses to get more people to sign up for their trips.

Second, the driver provided by Andina Travel Services was super-dangerous and almost killed us. He completely failed to adapt his speed to the road conditions, and kept on driving more than 30 miles an hour, on a curvy dirt road, near a 2,000 feet cliff, with only 10-15 feet visibility caused by a thick fog … (see the photo and movie below). His dangerous driving also almost led to pushing another truck off the cliff …

Third, one of the reasons we picked Andina over other travel agencies was because they had promised we would spend two nights at the bottom of pristine Colca Canyon. However, once we started hiking, they tried to change that plan and convince us that “it’s better” to spend the second night in one of the villages at the top of the canyon. I was extremely unhappy about that, as that second night was Christmas Eve, and I was really looking forward to spending it in the oasis at the bottom of the canyon. Probably spending it in the typical Peruvian village wouldn’t have been too bad either, but it was not what we had signed up for. Luckily, after I voiced my concerns and dissatisfaction, I managed to convince our guide to let Anil and me separate from the rest of the group and follow the original itinerary. Still, arguing during holidays is not fun!

Fourth, Andina Travel Services tried to extort about $100 from us (it might not sound like much money to you, but in Peru it’s quite a lot). This money we paid the agency to buy bus tickets to Cuzco for us, as we didn’t have time to buy them ourselves. Andina was supposed to buy the tickets during the time that we were backpacking in Colca Canyon and hand them over to us upon our return to Arequipa three days later. But when we got back to the city, not only did nobody wait for us with the tickets, but also their office was closed. The following day their office remained closed and nobody was answering the phone.

We had grown quite frustrated with that, as it was the second day of Christmas, 26th of December, and we knew that on that day it would be close to impossible to get new bus tickets. In fact, this was also one of the reasons why, in the first place, we had outsourced the ticket buying to the travel agency. We knew that many buses would not run during the Christmas time, and the remaining ones would likely be overbooked. And we really needed to get to Cuzco as soon as possible to have enough time to acclimatize to the high altitude before the Inca Trek (Cuzco is located at 3,200 meters, almost 1,000 meters higher than Arequipa).

Because of that we decided to ask for help from the tourist police, which was conveniently located across from our hotel. Interestingly, nobody there spoke English! So I was forced to resort to my not-so-fluent Spanish to explain the situation to a friendly policeman. I’m super-proud to report that I somehow managed to convey a message to him. He was quite sympathetic and somewhat ashamed about the situation.
The policeman also tried—without success—calling Andina Travel Services. Finally, he decided to outsource us and our problem to iPeru—a government-run, comprehensive tourist information center. The nice lady working there spoke fluent English, which made further communication much simpler. She also took her job very seriously, was confident she would be able to help us, and informed us that her agency had the power to shut down Andina!

It must have been true, as immediately after she called Andina and left a voice message with them, they called back and promised to resolve the situation as soon as possible. Initially, the owner of Andina lied and claimed that they had left the tickets for us at our hotel (which we knew not to be true). However, after the lady from iPeru took a firm position with her, the owner admitted to not having bought the tickets, and offered to go to the bus station to buy them. Again, that was not an easy task because of Christmas but, luckily, she somehow managed.

An hour later, when the owner of Andina Travel Services arrived at the iPeru office, the lady at iPeru made her apologize to us! That’s how seriously the government of Peru cares about tourists’ happiness and satisfaction. So the lesson learned here is: travel only with reputable travel agencies, and if in doubt, consult iPeru before making your choice.

Cameloids of South America: Llamas, Alpacas, Vicunas, Guanacos

2011-12-08T16:17:00.000-08:00

Before our trip to Peru I knew very little about alpacas and llamas. They were these cute-looking animals living in South America farmed for their wool. I’m pretty sure I was not even able to tell the difference between the two (except for knowing that sweaters made from alpaca’s wool are more expensive than the ones made from llama’s).

In Peru, I finally got to see a llama and an alpaca side by side, and now I know that they are quite different. It’s not possible to tell them apart solely by judging their color, as they both can be white, cream, brown, or even grey or black. However, the Llama is much larger than the Alpaca, and it has also a longer, more slender neck. Of the two, the Alpaca usually has more consistent coloring (which, I guess, is the reason why its fiber is considered to be of better quality). Both are domesticated species, but only llamas have been used as pack and meat animals, whereas alpacas were bred specifically for their fiber.

I was surprised to learn that the Llama and the Alpaca are close relatives of camels, but now that I look again at the pictures of these animals I can see the resemblance. Take a look at the photos posted below, and see if you can too.

As you can see, the Peruvians are well aware of the tourists’ interest in those animals, and are happy to pose with them for the pictures. Of course, they expect you to pay for these photos¬—a concept I’m not comfortable with.

In Peru, it’s also possible to see the Guanaco and the Vicuña, two other cameloids closely related to the Llama and the Alpaca. We didn’t see any guanacos during our trip¬—likely because they’re rare and endangered—but we saw vicuñas. The latter used to be endangered too, but thanks to conservation efforts aren’t anymore.

Vicuñas live at an altitude of 3,200 to 4,800 meters, on the grassy plains of the Andes, where they feed. On our way to and from Colca Canyon we passed several groups of vicuñas and I was hoping we would stop next to one of those groups but, sadly, we didn’t. I took a few photos through our bus window, but they just didn’t come out well at all. It’s a pity, as the Vicuña is the national animal of Peru--represented on the Peruvian coat of arms—and I’d have loved to have a photo of it, taken by me, in Peru. Maybe next time.

Llamas in Machu Picchu, posing for tourists.

An alpaca.

Peruvians Are the Worst Drivers in the World

2011-12-06T17:45:00.000-08:00

Good drivers are extremely rare in Peru. In fact, I would dare to claim that Peru has the worst drivers in the world, and definitely the worst I've ever encountered in my life. With the exception of the driver that we had in Manu NP, all other drivers that we saw were dare-devils, always playing with their own, as well as their passengers’ lives.

All in all we spent maybe 30 hours on Peruvian roads, during which we saw several accidents and multiple near-hits (a few including the bus in which we were traveling!) I felt extremely frustrated about that, because the roads in Peru are very good and not crowded at all, so there should be no accidents.

The accidents happen because Peruvian drivers think that curves are the best place to pass other cars, that the double line simply marks the middle of the road, and that driving fast in rain and/or fog is the best way of dealing with those adverse weather conditions. Sadly, I also have to conclude that Peruvian drivers do not learn. After a near-hit, they slow down for a minute or two, say prayers to God and St. Christopher (the patron of drivers), and then they go back to their old way of driving.

You might think that I’m being dramatic and overstating the situation. To prove that’s not the case, I have a movie and a few photos for you. The movie shows that not even the densest of fogs can slow down a Peruvian driver, whereas the photos show our bus ignoring the road signs (the double line, the dangerous curve sign), a truck that fell off the road as a result of speeding on a curve, and multiple crosses along the road commemorating people who got killed there. All those photos were taken during a short (mere six hours) drive from Puno to Arequipa!

Driving through the thick-as-milk fog on the way to Colca Canyon:

A few photos from a short, six-hour drive from Puno to Arequipa:

Despite all of that it was a pretty drive:

A cement factory-from a distance, it almost looked like a mirage:

The Floating Island of Uros, Lake Titicaca

2011-12-04T09:07:00.000-08:00

The amazing floating islands of Uros easily ignite the imagination of travelers, photographers, and anthropologists. How could they not, being built in the same traditional way for the past few hundred years by the descendants of the pre-Incan people?

The Uros islands are located on Lake Titicaca, just five kilometers away from the city of Puno, and are made of totora reeds, which grow in the lake. There are 42 islands, inhabited by several hundred people. The islands differ in size but are all located in close vicinity to each other. The larger islands house about ten families, and some shared facilities (e.g., a school, a local radio station). The smaller islands house only two or three families. Between the islands the locals travel in motorized, not reed boats–crushing the romantic image that many visitors to the islands would love to cherish.

Personally, I do not have a problem with the Uros people using modern technology. I think it is quite admirable that they put so much effort into preserving the cultural heritage of their ancestors, and choose to live on and maintain the islands. In case you do not know, the reeds rot away, and have to be replaced at least every three months, if not more often. This seems like a lot of work to me, and I could not blame anybody who would like to choose an easier lifestyle and move away to the mainland. So if the motor boats, solar panels, TV sets, radios, or gas ovens make the lives of the Uros easier, I’m happy for them. Expecting them to completely stay behind the rest of the world, just to please the tourists and anthropologists, seems very egoistic to me.

On a similar note, I have no problem with the Uros trying to make money off the visitors to the islands. In the end, the islands are their home and they can decide if and when they want to have visitors, and if and how much those visitors should pay for interfering with their lives. Would I like to be an explorer who stumbled upon the undiscovered Uros tribe and got to experience their “real” life instead of watching the show they put on for tourists? Sure, I would. Is it a realistic dream? Definitely not. So instead of complaining about “commercialization” of the Uros islands, I’m going to get the most I can out of this experience and learn as much as I can about their fascinating way of life.

For example, during the visit to the islands I learned that the totora reeds are not only the building material for the islands, but are also part of the Uros’ diet and are used to cure some medical conditions. The bottom of the reed is eaten for its iodine, the white insides are used to fight pain and hunger, as well as to reduce the fatigue and hangovers (in that way they are quite similar to coca leaves), and the flowers are used to make tea. Of course, we did not miss a chance to try the totora reed and I have to say that it was quite tasty–slightly sweet and refreshing. I would not, however, enjoy having to eat it every day.

The Uros Islands:

Santa Maria Island:

The Inca Moral Code on Taquile Island, Lake Titicaca

2011-12-03T08:37:00.000-08:00

The inhabitants of Taquile, a small island on Lake Titicaca located some 45 km offshore from Puno, follow the strict Incan moral code ama sua, ama llulla, ama qhilla (Quechua for "do not steal, do not lie, do not be lazy").

“Do not be lazy” for Taquilenos means relying on their own strength to do the majority of chores. Not only do they not use motorized equipment (e.g., cars), but they don’t even use wheel carts or farm animals. We were very impressed to see several older people carry huge loads on their backs from the docks to the main village–the elevation difference of around 200 meters (650 feet). It might not seem like much, but at 4,000 meters (13,000 feet) of altitude it is a lot. Most people in our group were gasping for air and stopping every few meters to catch their breath, while Taquilenos kept on marching at an even pace.

It is also admirable that Taquilenos do not lie and do not steal, but I guess I would expect that from all small and isolated communities. If you live on an island with only 2,200 people, you’d better make sure that you don’t make enemies with anybody!

Taquilenos are also known for their textile products, and, in 2005, "Taquile and Its Textile Art" were proclaimed by UNESCO to be "Masterpieces of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity." We wanted to buy some woven hats, but we got discouraged by their excessive price. We were interested, though, to learn that a hat’s color and the way it’s worn helps distinguish married from single men, and the ones who are looking for a wife from the ones who want to be single. So, the red hat is worn solely by married men, and the white-red by the single. If a single man is looking for a wife, he will wear the hat’s end on the side of his head, and if he is not looking he will keep the hat’s end on the back of his head. How cool and simple is that?! I’m convinced that single people in most countries would appreciate this simple system of announcing dating intentions and that it would lead to an increase in happily married couples worldwide.

Traveling in Peru–Practical Information

2011-12-01T17:44:00.000-08:00

Traveling within Peru is easy and can be quite cheap. There are seven major ways of transportation:

(1) By foot and/or hitchhiking–It is definitely possible, but it does not seem like the most efficient way to travel. First, Peru is a quite large country (it is 2,000 km from its southern to northern border). Second, very few locals own cars, so catching a free ride might be difficult/impossible. Even if hitchhiking, you would be expected to chip in for the fuel. But I guess it is only fair that you would do that.

(2) By taxi–Within cities taxis, are the best option. A taxi ride across town will cost just few dollars ($1 to $10, depending on the distance). In bigger cities there are plenty of taxis, especially at the airports and bus stations. But it is equally easy to catch a cab in the city center and near major tourist attractions. Just do not forget to agree on a price before you get into a cab!

(3) By combis–If you would like to visit some of the smaller cities or villages, likely you will end up using combis. These are medium-size vans and/or buses that operate over short distances, between neighboring villages and cities. This is not the most comfortable way of traveling, but it’s dirt-cheap (under $1 for trips up to 50 km). Combis usually are overcrowded and stop often, but they let you get close to “real” Peruvians.

(4) By road, in a rented car–This is definitely an option, but it seems to be neither popular nor economic to travel that way. Except for the airport in Lima we didn’t see any car rental companies in Peru. However, I just quickly checked on the Internet and found that there are also several car rental companies in Cuzco. They are not cheap, however, as the daily rental price would not be less than $70 to $100. Fuel in Peru is expensive as well: it costs twice as much as fuel in the US.

(5) By bus–In my opinion, this is the most efficient and cheapest way to travel in Peru. There are multiple privately operated bus companies in Peru, all of which offer remarkably low fares by Western standards. For example, even a long-distance (about 470 km) overnight trip from Arequipa to Cuzco in a high-end bus costs only $35. The same trip with a cheaper operator likely would cost not more than $13. During our trip we sampled several bus companies (of varying service and price levels) and all of them were excellent. The buses were always clean and on time, and the seats were comfortable and reclining. The high-end bus companies offer excellent onboard services as well, such as video entertainment and food (no vegetarian options though!). For local trips, you can buy tickets on the bus itself, but for the longer overnight trips, it's best to buy tickets in advance directly from the bus company offices (e.g., located at bus stations). Most long-distance buses run during the night, but I would recommend that at least once you take a trip during the day, as the scenery outside is amazing! (Just to get an idea, take a look at my photos below, all taken during a single bus trip from Cuzco to Puno.)

(6) By train–The railway network is not well developed in Peru, and in many places it seems to be built especially for tourists. For example, Peru Rail only operates two routes (and variations of them): one from Cuzco to Machu Picchu, and the other from Cuzco to Puno/Lake Titicaca. (Shockingly, a one-way ticket to Machu Picchu costs between $56 to $300, and a similar ticket to Lake Titicaca sells for $220.) Train aficionados might be interested to know that the second highest (and until 2005 the highest) railway in the world is located in Peru. It is the Lima to Huancayo route, which crosses the Galera summit tunnel under Mount Meiggs at 4,783 meters (15,692 ft) above sea level. (Be aware, however, that the train runs only twice a month. On a positive note, this train is not as expensive as the trains departing from Cuzco. You can get a one-way ticket for $30.)

(7) By plane–It is possible to fly between major cities in Peru (Lima, Cuzco, Arequipa, and Ica are all well-connected), as well as between some of those cities and the Amazon Jungle (e.g., during the dry season there are several flights a day between Cuzco and Puerto Maldonado, and between Lima and Pucallpa). Sadly, it is a quite expensive way of traveling, as foreigners get charged two to three times more than locals!

(8) By bike/boat/skateboard/paragliding/etc.–I’m sure all of these are possible as well, but I do not feel competent enough to comment on them. Good luck to you, anyway!

Some cities in Peru, e.g., Juliaca, bear remarkable resemblance to Indian cities... They just don't honk quite enough in Peru ;)

A comfy ride in a Peruvian bus:

Beautiful landscape outside the window:

A first glimpse of Lake Titicaca:

The Saqsaywaman Ruins

2011-11-30T18:15:00.000-08:00

Located on a steep hill above the city of Cuzco, the Saqsaywaman (also known as Saksaq Waman, Sacsayhuamán , Sacsahuaman, or Saxahuaman) fortress offers an impressive view of the city and the valley in which it is located. It was constructed by the Killke culture in about AD 1100, and further expanded by the Inca in 13th century and after.

Many guidebooks recommend visiting the Saqsaywaman Ruins before Machu Picchu, but I think it doesn’t matter in which order you see them. We first visited Machu Picchu, and we don’t think it took away from our experience of the Saqsaywaman Ruins. Machu Picchu is a larger site and is located in more impressive surroundings, but the Saqsaywaman Ruins are also quite impressive due to the size of the limestone stones that were used in the construction of the fortress. The largest of these blocks are estimated to weigh between 150 to 200 tons, and are among the largest used in any building in pre-Hispanic America. It is unknown how those huge blocks were put into place.

Also, the precision with which those blocks were fitted into the walls of the fortress is impressive and unmatched in the Americas. The stones are so closely spaced that–we were told–not a single piece of paper will fit between them. This precision, combined with the way the walls lean inward, is thought to have helped the ruins survive multiple devastating earthquakes, despite the fact that no mortar was used.

Cuzco

2011-11-29T06:21:00.000-08:00

All in all we spent five or six days in Cuzco, as it was perfectly suited as a base from which to explore the rest of Peru, for many reasons.

First, it is well connected with other interesting places in Peru. Not only it is a gateway both to the Amazon Jungle and Machu Picchu, but it is also just a few hours away by bus from Lake Titicaca and Arequipa.

Second, there are, literally, hundreds of travel agencies in Cuzco that can help you organize any trip you might want (even including trips to other countries, e.g., Bolivia). That means that you can shop around and pick the offer that suits you best. I would even advise against booking any trips in advance, as you will have far more options, and more negotiating power, once in Peru.

Third, there are thousands of hotels, bed and breakfasts, pensions, restaurants, cafes, and pubs in Cuzco, some of which cater to the budget-conscious, while others to the luxury, traveler. The night scene seems quite happening too, so I’m sure you could keep yourself busy here for quite some time. In fact, I’ve heard about travellers who went for a short trip to Cuzco only to find themselves falling in love with the city, and moving here (semi-) permanently.

Fourth, at 3,399 meters (11,152 feet) of elevation, Cuzco is a perfect place to get acclimatized to high altitude, which is crucial for anybody planning to set out for a high-altitude trek in the Andes (e.g., the Inca Trek).

Last but not least, Cuzco is an interesting tourist destination in itself, as there are many important archeological sites dispersed throughout the city. Cuzco’s importance in the world’s history was recognized in 1983 by UNESCO, when it inscribed the city onto a list of World Heritage Sites.

The history of Cuzco is a violent one. The first inhabitants of the region were the Killke people, who established the city in the early 9th century. Three centuries later, the Inca invaded and conquered the region, and made Cuzco the capital of their empire (between 13th century and 1532). Another three centuries passed and the same fate that the Incas inflicted upon the Killke now became their fate. Just as the Inca built on top of Killke structures, the Spanish invaders replaced temples built by the Inca with Catholic churches. Cuzco became the center for Spanish colonization and spread of Christianity in the Andean world. Under Spanish rule, the city flourished thanks to agriculture, cattle raising, mining, as well as trade with Europe. Cuzco retained its importance after Peru declared its independence in 1821 and has continued to grow since, despite being shaken by several major earthquakes. Today, Cuzco is a busy happening city with many beautiful streets and squares, as well as freshly renovated buildings–likely thanks to tourists’ dollars in action.

Cuzco by day and night:

Animals and Plants of Manu NP

2011-11-27T18:49:00.000-08:00

“The biological diversity found in Manú National Park exceeds that of any other place on Earth.”

After spending just four days in the park I have no problem believing this UNESCO’s statement justifying the presence of Manu NP on World Heritage List. The number and the variety of the exotic plants and animals we saw in the park were just unbelievable. At a first glance, the animals you can see during an African safari can seem more impressive, but after you take a second look, you will realize that the Amazon Jungle is much more mesmerizing. It might be missing the big game, but it more than compensates for it with the variety and sheer numbers of the small animals. And as far as the plant kingdom is concerned, the Amazon Jungle is the uncontested winner.

Speaking from my personal experience, I can tell you that after a few days on an African safari I would feel like doing something else, but in the Amazon Jungle I could stay, without getting bored, for a month, or even longer. There is just so much to do and so much to see! A small testimony to that can be the photos of a few interesting animals and plants that I posted below.

Help! I’m Going to the Amazon Jungle – What Can I Expect?

2011-11-26T18:39:00.000-08:00

So you are about to sign up (or maybe you already did) for a trip to the Amazon Jungle in Peru, and you start to wonder what you can expect during your trip. (This post is addressed to people who plan to go on an organized trip to the Amazon Jungle. If you plan to go there on your own, well, my deepest respect and best wishes to you.)

What will you eat there? Where are you going to sleep? Will there be electricity? Air-conditioning? How about Internet? Mobile phone reception?
What kind of dangerous animals live in the Jungle? What will happen if you get sick? Will you have an easy access to a doctor or emergency services?

So many doubts and questions!

Let me address these points one by one.

1. Food: Let’s start with the good news: You won’t have to hunt for your food. You won’t even have to worry about buying it. Your travel agency will provide you with everything you might need, and will even accommodate for whatever food allergies and/or food preferences you might have. I guarantee that you’ll love the food—the Peruvians know how to cook and do it very well.
The only thing that I would recommend taking with you is a sizeable bottle of water (or a camelback). A couple of times a day you’ll be offered purified (boiled) water, which you can then transfer to your personal water system. Most of the travel agencies will also offer you a selection of soft drinks, but you don’t want to drink that. Well, maybe with the exception of Inca Cola, which you should try at least once while in Peru.

A birthday cake baked without an oven!

2. Accommodation: The lodges within the park can be best described as “rustic.” They are built from wood, have minimal to no decorations, and only basic furniture. Most rooms I saw had only a wooden-frame bed, a wall hanger, and, occasionally, a chair, and/or a small table. In fact, this is as much as you need, as you’ll almost exclusively use your room for sleeping and storing your stuff. Your day will be filled with so many activities that you won’t have time to hang around in your room. And, if you happen to have a bit of free time, I’m sure you’d prefer to spend it in the fresh air–either hanging out at the nearby beach, or in a hammock, relaxing and/or reading a book.

Most of the lodges I saw had an “open design.” What I mean by that is that any animals are welcome to come and visit you during the day and/or night, as the walls of the rooms don’t reach the ceiling. I guess the reason behind that is to enable better air circulation in the rooms. It’s also one of the reasons why all the beds have mosquito nets to protect you from those most unwanted visitors. It’s your responsibility, however, to neatly wrap the net around your bed. If you don’t, you’ll be food for many.
The lodges come with showers heated only by the sun. So if a warm shower is important to your well-being, your best bet is to hit the showers in the late afternoon or early evening.

Alte Madre de Dios:

3. Electricity: Even though we saw some electric lines in the jungle, in most places electricity is provided solely by generators. That means that even in the most luxurious lodges, you should not expect electricity during the night. (You wouldn’t want the generators to interrupt your sleep, would you?). In the majority of places, the generators would be on only for around two to three hours a day: one hour in the morning, and two hours in the evening. That means no light, no laptop/iPad/camera/mobile phone/iPod charging outside those few hours. It also means no air-conditioning. But that should not be a problem: as I mentioned above, most lodges have an open design that allows for easy air circulation.

4. Internet and mobile phone reception: To the best of my knowledge none of the lodges within Manu NP offers Internet access. However, in one of the small villages located on the outskirts of Manu NP, there was a sign proudly announcing an Internet café. Be aware, however, that it will take you several hours to get there from your lodge—traveling in the Jungle is slow!
There was absolutely no mobile phone reception in the jungle, except for this one village that had the Internet sign as well. In that village, the reception was good enough to receive and send text messages, but was not good enough to hold a phone conversation. So if being connected with the outside world is important to you, bring a satellite phone. Those still work everywhere.

5. Medical facilities: The last (semi-)proper medical facilities that we saw were in Paucartambo, some four to six hours away by road from the lodges of Manu NP. That means that you should think twice before you set out on a trip there while seriously sick. It also means that, in case of medical emergency, you’ll have to count on the resourcefulness of your guide and your co-travelers.

6. Dangers: There are some potentially dangerous animals in the jungle (the anaconda, jaguar, piranha, poison frog--to name a few) but, luckily, they have better things to do than attacking tourists. It might surprise you but, likely, the most dangerous animal you’ll meet—and definitely the most annoying—will be the mosquito. Mosquitos in the Amazon Jungle are ubiquitous, fearless, and laugh into the face of all insect repellents. Your best protection from them will be wearing long sleeves and sleeping under neatly secured mosquito net. More than any of the animals, you should be aware of reckless drivers, and pretty bad road conditions. During the rainy season, getting stuck in the middle of a jungle can also be an issue. So I would not plan a flight back home, or an important meeting, for the day immediately following your scheduled return from the Jungle. But other than that, I’m sure you’ll have lots of fun and I’m jealous that I cannot go there instead of you!

Cock-of-the-rock: the National Bird of Peru

2011-11-25T17:41:00.000-08:00

The beautiful red-crested Andean Cock-of-the-rock is the national bird of Peru. We got to see it in the cloud forest of the Amazon Jungle, which is its native habitat.

It is much easier to spot the males, as they have a big orange-red crest on the top of their heads, which–you have to admit–makes them look a bit strange. As with most birds, the female coloring is not as intense and, therefore, they can hide more easily in the dense forest.

Two males. Unfortunately, I did not manage to capture any females on film:

Machu Huasi Oxbow Lake, Manu NP

2011-11-24T15:56:00.000-08:00

On day three of our Amazon Jungle adventure we set out for an afternoon excursion to Machu Huasi Oxbow Lake, where–among other animals–we saw capybaras, the largest living rodents in the world. At 35 to 66 kg (77 to 150 lb.) of weight, they are fifty times heavier than their close cousin–the guinea pig. Despite their large size, it is surprisingly difficult to see them in the wild. These semi-aquatic mammals spend most of their lives underwater, and can keep their breath for quite a long time. They seem to be shy as well, and did not want to be photographed. We managed to catch a few glimpses of one or two capybaras when they came to the surface to catch some air, but there was not enough time to snap a good photo. The only shot that I managed to take is completely blurred and could equally well be a photo of a Loch Ness monster.

Machu Huasi is not only home to capybaras, but also to many exotic birds. The most interesting of them was a colorful and noisy bird by the name of hoatzin. Like the capybara, the hoatzin is also endemic to South America. The hoatzin is quite large (0.65 meters/2 feet), has a long neck, and has a small head topped with a spiky crest. It’s pleasant on the eyes with its blue face and maroon eyes, but it is not the primary reason why I found it fascinating. I was intrigued to learn that the funky-looking hoatzin is interesting from the evolutionary point of view as well: its DNA suggests that it is one of the oldest birds on earth.

Its anatomy is also enthralling: similar to a cow, and unique among other birds, the hoatzin uses bacterial fermentation to break down the leaves and buds it consumes. Unlike the cow, however, which possesses the rumen–a specialized stomach for bacterial fermentation–the hoatzin uses the crop–an enlargement of the esophagus. In fact, the hoatzin’s crop is so large that it displaces the flight muscles, impairing its flight capacity. Adult birds can fly only short distances, and look rather clumsy.

Hoatzins are also quite vocal and use a variety of hoarse calls, including groans, hisses, and grunts, to communicate with other individuals in their group. Their calls are loud and often associated with body movements, such as wing spreading. It’s quite a spectacle to watch them “talk” to each other.

A different kind of attraction that we experienced during our Machu Huasi Oxbow Lake excursion was using a balsa raft to navigate the lake. It is a perfect means of transport to use there, as it can move quietly and slowly, without disturbing the birds. Floating on the lake, quietly scanning the trees and grass in search of the birds, we felt connected with nature like never before.

Our excursion to Machu Huasi Oxbow Lake started with a small mishap–neither of the two boats that were at our disposal would start. As a likely reason for that was flooding of their engines, our guides tried to remove as much water from the boats as possible. Seeing how much water was in the boat made me worried that it might sink … Luckily that didn’t happen.

After we disembarked the boat, we had to walk for about 30 minutes before we got to Machu Huasi Oxbow Lake.

We didn’t mind that at all, as along the way we saw many interesting animals and plants. My favorite was Mimosa pudica (a.k.a. Sensitive Plant, Touch-me-not, Humble Plant, Shame Plant), which folds it leaves when touched or shaken.

A video:

We saw several other interesting animlas and plant as well.

Zip-lining above the Amazon Jungle

2011-11-22T18:43:00.000-08:00

As if going to the Amazon Jungle was not exciting enough, the travel agency that organized our trip to Manu NP decided that we needed an extra dose of adrenalin, and it offered us zip-lining above the jungle.

Zip-lining is one of a few things that I've never tried before, and I also chickened out from doing it during that trip. I'm not sure if there is a medical term for it, but I seem to suffer from a fear of man-made-high-altitude-structures. I hate bridges (all bridges, not only the suspension type), I feel anxious in elevators and at the top floors of skyscrapers, and I would feel super-uneasy hanging on a line 100 meters above the Amazon forest. It is not pure fear of heights, however, as I do not mind flying, paragliding, or getting to the edge of a mountain cliff.

After hours of self-analysis, I concluded that I am a very scared/anxious/fearful person, who convinces herself to do crazy things only if she feels that the value added by these experiences is higher than the regret of not doing them. In this particular case my precise calculations pointed against zip-lining. I truly enjoy my earthly life, and I decided that I do not want to risk losing it for a thrill of zip-lining on old, rusty equipment. Anil and others did it, however, and lived to tell me how great it was. They told me they loved the different perspective that zip-lining offered, and that from up above they could also see the monkeys much better. So I guess, maybe–but just maybe–I should have overcome my fear and tried it as well.

My Love and I, waiting for our turn:

Zip-lining above the Jungle:

A Night Walk through the Jungle

2011-11-21T14:05:00.000-08:00

What would a trip to a jungle be without exploring it during the night, when all dangerous animals wake up and your human eyes don’t work that well any more? I would say that it would be a perfectly nice trip, but, again, our travel agency decided otherwise. Did I mention that mosquitos also become more active after dark, and that the ones in the Amazon Jungle are totally and completely resistant to the strongest insect repellents?

I guess it will not surprise you if I add that our guide took a MACHETE with him for the walk (which he actually later did put into action–see the movie below), and, just before we set out for the hike, in a totally cool and as-a-matter-of-fact voice informed us that he did get lost a few times before in the jungle. We should not worry, however–he assured us–as, eventually, he always found his way back. It might have taken him a few days to return to civilization, but he always found it back. (If any of you readers have any theories that could shed some light as to why I always sign up for activities like this, and even pay my hard-earned money for them, I would be very grateful if you would share your insights with me.)

The machete in action:

In preparation for our night walk, and potentially getting lost in the jungle, I packed an ample supply of water and protein bars into my backpack. As I learned later, I needn’t have bothered to take the protein bars. The whole forest was full of termites, which–we were told–are both tasty and protein-rich. I could have probably skipped the water too, as it was raining quite often in the jungle, and the leaves of many plants seemed to be perfectly adapted to accumulating water.

Termites: protein-rich emergency food.

Well, I’ll spare you the suspense–we didn’t need to use any of these survival tricks, didn’t get lost, and had fantastic time. We started the hike around one hour before sunset, as it is the best time to see nocturnal animals–earlier they are asleep, later it might be too dark for our eyes to see anything. In particular, we were told to keep an eye out for snakes, as many of them become active around dusk. Luckily, we didn’t encounter any (which, of course, does not mean that they were not there).

Anyway, here we are in the jungle. It’s night, it’s pitch-dark, not even stars are lighting our way, as we are separated from them by a dense canopy of trees. We have flashlights, but they seem like toys right now, and are barely good enough to light our next few steps. For the most part, we have to rely on what we hear, and what we feel.

It’s humid and still pretty hot. I wish I could remove my long-sleeved blouse but I don’t, as I fear that then I would get eaten alive by the mosquitoes. The air is heavy but also fresh. The jungle is alive with sounds of millions of insects and a few bigger animals. Sometimes I feel like we are being watched, but likely it’s only my imagination. In either case, I’m glad I’m not alone.

I’m not scared, though. The surroundings are too interesting and my mind is too busy analyzing them, as well as processing those new sensations. I feel happy and peaceful, and united with nature. I’m back to my roots: I imagine it’s a few thousands years ago and I’m one of my ancestors–a hunter-gatherer moving through the forest, looking for food, water, and a good place to spend the night. I don’t know if I will find any, but I have to keep on moving, as my survival, and that of my family/tribe, depends on me.

Life is quite different today. Instead of hunting, we go to supermarkets (though sometimes shopping also feels like hunting). Mostly, we do not have to worry where we are going to sleep the next night, and we do not have to fend off dangerous animals from our houses. We have lots of free time and we can spend it as we please, for example, on trips to the Jungle. In that Jungle we can go for a night walk, which might remind us how it was a few thousands years ago, and how much effort and perseverance it has taken for our species to get where we are right now. This realization might make us feel extremely grateful, both to our ancestors for their hard work, and to the Jungle and Lady Night for this unique experience that provoked all those thoughts and feelings.

A bird with a super-long tail.

Other nightly creatures.

Clay Lick, Manu National Park

2011-11-20T08:39:00.000-08:00

One day we woke up before the sun, and as soon as its first rays hit the Amazon tree line, we boarded a boat, and went up the river to watch hundreds of macaws, parrots, parakeets, and parrotlets eat their breakfast at a mineral-rich river bank known as a "clay lick."

Some foods eaten by macaws and parrots contain toxic or caustic substances, and initially it had been suggested that eating clay could help these birds neutralize the ingested food toxins, and help with their digestion. Newer research, however, suggests that the macaws–and few other bird species–flock to clay licks because of sodium, a mineral found near the ocean but otherwise not easily available.

No matter what the reason the birds have to come to the clay licks, they do put on a fabulous show for the observers. So as not to disturb them in their natural habitat, our boat stopped some 100 to 150 meters away from the clay lick, on the opposite bank of the river from the feasting birds. We hid under a canopy of palm leaves, and watched hundreds of parrots and macaws fly above our heads to get to their breakfast spot. The morning was so quiet, and the birds were so close to us, we could hear their wings flap. It was a bit more difficult to observe them once they landed on the clay lick, as by then they were pretty far away from us. The gloomy weather was not helping the visibility either. Even with my zoom lens I was unable to take good photos of the birds on the clay lick. Others, to be able to see the birds, had to use powerful binoculars. And, even then, we were not able to tell different species from one another. Still, it was a great experience that I would highly recommend, and I would not mind repeating it myself soon.

Parrots flying in the direction of the clay lick:

A gray-pink clay lick at the riverbank:

Macaw flying away after the breakfast:

Our boat:

White Water Rafting on Alto Madre de Dios

2011-11-19T09:18:00.000-08:00

I've never been white water rafting before, so I expected to be at least a bit anxious about my first time. I wasn't, though, and I think my lack of fear can be attributed to the great guide and extraordinarily kind group of people with whom I was rafting. Throughout, I felt that I could trust them and that they would not leave me in the river to be eaten by piranhas ;) I'm actually not sure if the river was inhabited by piranhas, or other dangerous animals. I preferred not to ask.

The day was perfect: it was warm and sunny, and the water in the river was relatively peaceful. All that said, the current in the river was still pretty strong. If you want to have some laughs, play the video I posted below. It shows Anil and me trying to swim against the current, and not moving an inch! It looks like we are training in a countercurrent swimming machine.

Despite my seeming incompetence, I enjoyed swimming in the river a lot. The water was warm and the surroundings were unbelievably beautiful. In fact, all of us had so much fun that we all went swimming twice: once at the shore (as shown in the video you just watched), and once in the middle of the river. During the latter I again provided a lot of entertainment for everybody, and exposed my upper body weakness–without help I was not able to climb back to our raft! The video below shows my clumsiness and the “rescue” efforts of my travel companions.

As we were told to expect class III and IV rapids on the river, and most of us were white-water-rafting novices, I decided against taking my big photo camera on the raft, and instead I took the small flip video camera. Most of the time I kept it under my swim vest, but, occasionally, while rafting through a bit more peaceful part of the river, I would take it out and shoot short movies. If you would like to see how stunningly beautiful, peaceful, and wild–all at the same time–the Amazon Jungle is, watch the last movie I posted here. This movie will not only show you the beauty of the Jungle, but also how happy and excited it made us.